Table of Contents
Half_title
Copyright
Contents
Dedication
Introdution
Part 1: GETTING STARTED
1 TOOLS
What You Need to Know Before Buying Brushes
Five Must-Have Brushes
Other Brushes You Can Use
Disposables
What You Need to Know Before Buying Brushes
Five Must-Have Brushes
Other Brushes You Can Use
Disposables
2 SANITATION
Makeup Remover
Brush Cleaner
Maintaining Your Pencils and Pencil Sharpener
Getting Rid of Disposable Applicators
Disposal Dates
Makeup Remover
Brush Cleaner
Maintaining Your Pencils and Pencil Sharpener
Getting Rid of Disposable Applicators
Disposal Dates
3 SKIN CARE
Skin Types
Ten Power Foods for Healthy Skin
Cleansers
Exfoliants
Toners
Eye Creams
Moisturizers
Skin Types
Ten Power Foods for Healthy Skin
Cleansers
Exfoliants
Toners
Eye Creams
Moisturizers
1 TOOLS
What You Need to Know Before Buying Brushes
Five Must-Have Brushes
Other Brushes You Can Use
Disposables
What You Need to Know Before Buying Brushes
Five Must-Have Brushes
Other Brushes You Can Use
Disposables
2 SANITATION
Makeup Remover
Brush Cleaner
Maintaining Your Pencils and Pencil Sharpener
Getting Rid of Disposable Applicators
Disposal Dates
Makeup Remover
Brush Cleaner
Maintaining Your Pencils and Pencil Sharpener
Getting Rid of Disposable Applicators
Disposal Dates
3 SKIN CARE
Skin Types
Ten Power Foods for Healthy Skin
Cleansers
Exfoliants
Toners
Eye Creams
Moisturizers
Skin Types
Ten Power Foods for Healthy Skin
Cleansers
Exfoliants
Toners
Eye Creams
Moisturizers
Part 2: BREAKING DOWN YOUR LOOK
4 CORRECTIVE MAKEUP
Analyzing Your Face
Using Highlight and Contour
Analyzing Your Face
Using Highlight and Contour
5 FOUNDATION
How to Identify Your Skin Tone
Types of Foundation
Foundation Tools
Applying Foundation
How to Identify Your Skin Tone
Types of Foundation
Foundation Tools
Applying Foundation
6 TINTED PRIMERS, CONCEALERS, AND TATTOO COVERS
Tinted Primer
Concealer
Tattoo Cover
Tinted Primer
Concealer
Tattoo Cover
7 CHEEKS
Cheek Color Products
Highlighting and Contouring Your Cheeks
Applying Highlight, Contour, and Blush by Face Shape
Cheek Color Products
Highlighting and Contouring Your Cheeks
Applying Highlight, Contour, and Blush by Face Shape
8 NOSE
What You Should Know About Your Nose
Nose Highlight and Contour Shades and Tools
Highlighting and Contouring Your Nose by Nose Shape
What You Should Know About Your Nose
Nose Highlight and Contour Shades and Tools
Highlighting and Contouring Your Nose by Nose Shape
9 SETTING POWDER
Types of Setting Powder
Powder Application Tools
Applying Setting Powder
Types of Setting Powder
Powder Application Tools
Applying Setting Powder
10 EYEBROWS
The Perfect Eyebrow
Eyebrow Types
The Best Eyebrow Types for Each Face Shape
Brow Shaping
Filling in Brows
The Perfect Eyebrow
Eyebrow Types
The Best Eyebrow Types for Each Face Shape
Brow Shaping
Filling in Brows
11 EYE SHADOW
Types of Eye Shadows
Eye Shadow Finishes
Choosing an Eye Shadow Color
Applying Eye Shadow 101
Types of Eye Shadows
Eye Shadow Finishes
Choosing an Eye Shadow Color
Applying Eye Shadow 101
12 EYELINER
Types of Eyeliner
Basic Eyeliner Application
Going Beyond Basic: Eyeliner by Era
Types of Eyeliner
Basic Eyeliner Application
Going Beyond Basic: Eyeliner by Era
13 FULL EYE
Parts of the Eye and Their Role in Makeup
Correcting Your Eye Shape with Full Eye Makeup
Parts of the Eye and Their Role in Makeup
Correcting Your Eye Shape with Full Eye Makeup
14 EYELASHES
Types of Mascara
Mascara Colors
Mascara Wands
Basic Mascara Application
Other Eyelash Tools and Techniques
Types of Mascara
Mascara Colors
Mascara Wands
Basic Mascara Application
Other Eyelash Tools and Techniques
15 LIPS
Lip Color Products
Choosing the Right Lip Color
Applying Lip Liner
Creating Balance Based on Your Lip Shape
Lip Color Products
Choosing the Right Lip Color
Applying Lip Liner
Creating Balance Based on Your Lip Shape
4 CORRECTIVE MAKEUP
Analyzing Your Face
Using Highlight and Contour
Analyzing Your Face
Using Highlight and Contour
5 FOUNDATION
How to Identify Your Skin Tone
Types of Foundation
Foundation Tools
Applying Foundation
How to Identify Your Skin Tone
Types of Foundation
Foundation Tools
Applying Foundation
6 TINTED PRIMERS, CONCEALERS, AND TATTOO COVERS
Tinted Primer
Concealer
Tattoo Cover
Tinted Primer
Concealer
Tattoo Cover
7 CHEEKS
Cheek Color Products
Highlighting and Contouring Your Cheeks
Applying Highlight, Contour, and Blush by Face Shape
Cheek Color Products
Highlighting and Contouring Your Cheeks
Applying Highlight, Contour, and Blush by Face Shape
8 NOSE
What You Should Know About Your Nose
Nose Highlight and Contour Shades and Tools
Highlighting and Contouring Your Nose by Nose Shape
What You Should Know About Your Nose
Nose Highlight and Contour Shades and Tools
Highlighting and Contouring Your Nose by Nose Shape
9 SETTING POWDER
Types of Setting Powder
Powder Application Tools
Applying Setting Powder
Types of Setting Powder
Powder Application Tools
Applying Setting Powder
10 EYEBROWS
The Perfect Eyebrow
Eyebrow Types
The Best Eyebrow Types for Each Face Shape
Brow Shaping
Filling in Brows
The Perfect Eyebrow
Eyebrow Types
The Best Eyebrow Types for Each Face Shape
Brow Shaping
Filling in Brows
11 EYE SHADOW
Types of Eye Shadows
Eye Shadow Finishes
Choosing an Eye Shadow Color
Applying Eye Shadow 101
Types of Eye Shadows
Eye Shadow Finishes
Choosing an Eye Shadow Color
Applying Eye Shadow 101
12 EYELINER
Types of Eyeliner
Basic Eyeliner Application
Going Beyond Basic: Eyeliner by Era
Types of Eyeliner
Basic Eyeliner Application
Going Beyond Basic: Eyeliner by Era
13 FULL EYE
Parts of the Eye and Their Role in Makeup
Correcting Your Eye Shape with Full Eye Makeup
Parts of the Eye and Their Role in Makeup
Correcting Your Eye Shape with Full Eye Makeup
14 EYELASHES
Types of Mascara
Mascara Colors
Mascara Wands
Basic Mascara Application
Other Eyelash Tools and Techniques
Types of Mascara
Mascara Colors
Mascara Wands
Basic Mascara Application
Other Eyelash Tools and Techniques
15 LIPS
Lip Color Products
Choosing the Right Lip Color
Applying Lip Liner
Creating Balance Based on Your Lip Shape
Lip Color Products
Choosing the Right Lip Color
Applying Lip Liner
Creating Balance Based on Your Lip Shape
Part 3: BRINGING YOUR LOOK TOGETHER
16 MAKEUP CHECKLIST
Profile Sheet
Face Sheet
Profile Sheet
Face Sheet
17 TEN CLASSIC LOOKS
Daytime Natural
Elegant Evening
Dramatic Evening
1940s Bridal
1950s Chic
1970s Bronze
Metallic Smoky Eye
All About the Lips
Mature Mineral
Youthful Glitter
Daytime Natural
Elegant Evening
Dramatic Evening
1940s Bridal
1950s Chic
1970s Bronze
Metallic Smoky Eye
All About the Lips
Mature Mineral
Youthful Glitter
16 MAKEUP CHECKLIST
Profile Sheet
Face Sheet
Profile Sheet
Face Sheet
17 TEN CLASSIC LOOKS
Daytime Natural
Elegant Evening
Dramatic Evening
1940s Bridal
1950s Chic
1970s Bronze
Metallic Smoky Eye
All About the Lips
Mature Mineral
Youthful Glitter
Daytime Natural
Elegant Evening
Dramatic Evening
1940s Bridal
1950s Chic
1970s Bronze
Metallic Smoky Eye
All About the Lips
Mature Mineral
Youthful Glitter
Part 4: Appendix
Glossary
Glossary
Everyday
Makeup Secrets
by Daniel Klingler
A member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc.
I would like to dedicate this book in loving memory of my grandmother
Mary Klingler Hilliard, my
grandmother Catherine Wilson, my
sister Lori Klingler Chittendon, and my
dear friend John Albinger. I feel all of
you every day. Lastly, to my foundation,
my concealer, my love … Jay P.
Langhurst.
INTRODUCTION
Have you ever looked at a makeup
application in a book or magazine or on
the internet and attempted it, only to find
it wasn’t successful? Are you
overwhelmed by all the makeup options
at stores, to the point you don’t know
where to start? In Idiot’s Guides:
Everyday Makeup Secrets, I share all
you need to know to create your best
face, plus secrets on making your own
products, fixing different makeup issues,
and more. Whether your products and
tools are high end or simply from your
local drugstore, the tips and secrets I
share with you will allow you to create a beautiful look you’ll be happy to show
off.
This book follows the principles of art
and design, meaning each makeup
application is defined by the art
principles of color, shape, space, and
form and the design principles of
harmony, balance, proportion, and
emphasis. So while there are many ways
you can do your makeup, I focus on the
tools and information you need to create
the most flattering look on yourself.
To start, you get a primer on what you
need before applying makeup—from
getting and maintaining your makeup
tools to prepping your skin. I’ve then broken down each feature by chapter so
you can zero in on its role in your
makeup and what you need to make it
look its best. I close with 10 classic
makeup looks you can try. From a natural
look to a metallic smoky eye, these looks
have stood the test of time and are
varied enough that you’ll be sure to find
one you like. You can then use what
you’ve learned about your unique
features to translate any look to your
own face.
Whether you read the book cover to
cover or use it as a reference guide, I
hope it helps to simplify makeup for you.
Please feel free to reach out to me at
neckupdesign.com if you have questions about a product or application. Most
importantly, remember, it is not makeup
that makes you beautiful; it is you that
makes makeup beautiful!
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I have to start by thanking my childhood
friend and acquisitions editor Janette
Lynn. Thank you for trusting me with this
book and for checking off the last box on
my bucket list! Thank you to my editor,
Kayla Dugger, for being so sweet and
patient. Becky Batchelor (senior
designer and photographer), thank you
for working so hard and for being so
excited about this project with me.
When creating a full-color book, one
realizes they need back-up! This book
went up another level with Lindsey
Williams ( crazypretty.com) as lead makeup artist. Lindsey, thank you for all
of the phone conversations! Thanks to
Ashley Heiney for saying yes when I
asked her to assist with hair. And Carrie Duer, you’re the best friend and personal
assistant a guy could ask for! Thank you
to my models: Josie Sanders; my
beautiful niece Brooke Waltz; and my
Indianapolis theater peeps, Betsy
Norton, Cami Upchurch, Erin Coheneur,
Arianne Villareal, Jill Kelly, Audrey
Brinkley, Ashley Saunders, and Nathalie
Cruz (who is currently in therapy for
taking off her makeup so the readers
could see what real people look like!).
I’d also like to give a special thank you
to my clients and to the Indianapolis
theater community. You have given me
so much support and a space to learn and
grow; I will forever be grateful. Thank you to my professional mentors Howard
Leonard, Rosie Steffen, Susan Haise,
David and Cathi Simon, Winn
Claybaugh, and Debra Dietrich. Also,
thanks to my parents Gerald and Sharon
Kingler for giving me a great foundation.
Everyone needs a group of earth angels
—people you can expose your heart to
without judgment, people who will
listen, people who will celebrate your
achievements and hold your hand when
you are in need, and people who truly
exemplify unconditional love. I have
always had that with Sarah Bernadette
Ottow, Danya Sasada, Dana Nichols,
Nora Crosthwaite, Laura Angel-Lalanne, Melissa Zabel, Margaret and Cameron
Stutsman, and Phyllis Carr. Lastly, to Jay
Langhurst, who says “no” so I have to
prove him wrong! Love you most of all.
TRADEMARKS
All terms mentioned in this book that are
known to be or are suspected of being
trademarks or service marks have been
appropriately capitalized. Alpha Books
and Penguin Random House LLC cannot
attest to the accuracy of this information.
Use of a term in this book should not be
regarded as affecting the validity of any
trademark or service mark.
Publisher: Mike Sanders
Associate Publisher: Billy Fields
Acquisitions Editor: Janette Lynn
Development Editor: Kayla Dugger
Designer: Rebecca Batchelor
Photographer: Rebecca Batchelor
Indexer: Johnna VanHoose Dinse
Layout Technician: Ayanna Lacey
Proofreader: Virginia Vasquez Vought
PRODUCTION, LONDON
Digital Producer: Alex Valizadeh
Senior Digital Producer: Miguel Cunha
DIGITAL OPERATIONS, DELHI
Head of Digital Operations: Manjari Hooda Producer: Rahul Kumar
Assistant Editor: Etika Kapil
DTP Designer: Manish Bhatt
Operations Assistant: Tauhid Nasir
CONTENTS
PART 1
GETTING STARTED
1 TOOLS
What You Need to Know
Before Buying Brushes
Five Must-Have Brushes
Other Brushes You Can
Use
Disposables
2 SANITATION
Makeup Remover
Brush Cleaner
Maintaining Your Pencils
and Pencil Sharpener
Getting Rid of Disposable
Applicators
Disposal Dates
3 SKIN CARE
Skin Types
Ten Power Foods for
Healthy Skin
Cleansers
Exfoliants
Toners
Eye Creams
Moisturizers
PART 2
BREAKING DOWN
YOUR LOOK
4 CORRECTIVE
MAKEUP
Analyzing Your Face
Using Highlight and
Contour
5 FOUNDATION
How to Identify Your Skin
Tone
Types of Foundation
Foundation Tools
Applying Foundation
6 TINTED
PRIMERS,
CONCEALERS,
AND TATTOO
COVERS
Tinted Primer
Concealer
Tattoo Cover
7 CHEEKS
Cheek Color Products
Highlighting and
Contouring Your Cheeks
Applying Highlight,
Contour, and Blush by
Face Shape
8 NOSE
What You Should Know
About Your Nose
Nose Highlight and
Contour Shades and Tools
Highlighting and
Contouring Your Nose by
Nose Shape
9 SETTING
POWDER
Types of Setting Powder
Powder Application Tools
Applying Setting Powder
10 EYEBROWS
The Perfect Eyebrow
Eyebrow Types
The Best Eyebrow Types
for Each Face Shape
Brow Shaping
Filling in Brows
11 EYE SHADOW
Types of Eye Shadows
Eye Shadow Finishes
Choosing an Eye Shadow
Color
Applying Eye Shadow 101
12 EYELINER
Types of Eyeliner
Basic Eyeliner Application
Going Beyond Basic:
Eyeliner by Era
13 FULL EYE
Parts of the Eye and Their
Role in Makeup
Correcting Your Eye Shape
with Full Eye Makeup
14 EYELASHES
Types of Mascara
Mascara Colors
Mascara Wands
Basic Mascara Application
Other Eyelash Tools and
Techniques
15 LIPS
Lip Color Products
Choosing the Right Lip
Color
Applying Lip Liner
Creating Balance Based on
Your Lip Shape
PART 3
BRINGING YOUR
LOOK TOGETHER
16 MAKEUP
CHECKLIST
Profile Sheet
Face Sheet
17 TEN CLASSIC
LOOKS
Daytime Natural
Elegant Evening
Dramatic Evening
1940s Bridal
1950s Chic
1970s Bronze
Metallic Smoky Eye
All About the Lips
Mature Mineral
Youthful Glitter
PART 4
APPENDIX
Glossary
PART 1
GETTING
STARTED
CHAPTER 1
TOOLS
The correct tools are a must in creating
beautiful everyday makeup looks. For
example, I can’t tell you how many times
I have watched my clients use the
disposable applicator included with
their eye shadow. That applicator should
be thrown away the minute the eye
shadow is opened! So it is my personal
mission to get a set of brushes, as well
as proper disposables, in every
woman’s arsenal.
In this chapter, I discuss makeup
brushes, including what you must know
before buying brushes, my five must-
have brushes, and additional brushes you
may want. I also take you through some
handy disposable cosmetic tools.
WHAT
YOU
NEED TO
KNOW
BEFORE
BUYING
BRUSHES
Walking through a cosmetic
store can be very
intimidating.
There are a hundred different brushes
that can be used for makeup application,
many of which can be very expensive.
However, you can find each of these
tools at different price points depending
on your budget. Just remember the adage
“You get what you pay for” investing a
little more money in quality will provide
savings in the long run.
Beyond price, there are four things you
should consider when investing in
brushes: fibers, density, ferrule, and
handle.
FIBERS
Brushes are made from several types of
fibers (bristles), which can be
categorized as either synthetic or natural.
Synthetic fibers are animal fur free,
which is what you’ll get if you decide to
purchase vegan brushes. Synthetic fibers
are very soft, durable, and easily
cleaned. This makes them ideal for
applying cream makeup. However, they
tend not to hold color pigments as well
as natural fiber brushes.
Natural fibers are made with animal fur.
Goat hair is the most common in less-
expensive natural fiber brushes and
tends to be coarser. You can also find more-expensive brushes made from the
fur of squirrels, badgers, horses, minks,
and sable. Because natural bristles are
more porous, they can be damaged by
using cream makeup. Therefore, natural
fiber brushes should only be used with
powders.
DENSITY
Density refers to how many bristles are
found in a brush head. Brushes that
“dust” powder on the face, such as
setting powder and blush brushes, do not
require as many bristles. Brushes
designed to deposit more color, such as
kabuki and eye shadow brushes, should be denser.
FERRULE
The ferrule (pronounced like feral) is
the metal portion of the brush that holds
the bristles in place. Nickel is the most
durable metal for your brush heads, so
stick with that.
HANDLE
Makeup brushes are made with different
handle lengths and material. Typically, a
handle is either plastic or wood.
Handles come in two lengths: short and
long. Shorter handles are best when
applying makeup on yourself, while
longer handles are desirable when
applying makeup on others. When it
comes to material, a handle should be
durable enough to withstand pressure
and balanced properly for comfort and
manipulation.
Brush Head Shapes
The shape of the brush head is another potential
consideration when it comes to makeup application.
The following are some examples of different types
and what they’re best for:
• Round, fluffy, flat synthetic brush head:
This is great for blending and buffing
foundation into the skin.
• Soft, round, large natural brush head: This can be used for dusting powder on your face.
• Soft, medium-sized, dome-shaped natural brush he ad: With this shape, you can apply
blush and bronzer to the cheek area without
disturbing the foundation.
• Small, stiff, flat natural brush head: This is ideal for applying eye shadows on the lid.
• Flower-shaped, soft natural brush head:
The shape works to blend eye shadow on the
lid. It is best used in circular motions.
• Small-angled natural or synthetic brush
he ad: You can apply eyeliner and eyebrow
colors with this type. Use the natural head
with powders and the synthetic head with
cream makeup.
• Small, flat, round-tipped synthetic brush
he ad: This is best used to apply cream lip
colors.
FIVE MUST-HAVE
BRUSHES
There are many more brushes
you can buy to make your
application flawless.
However, these five brushes
are the basic tools I
recommend to achieve your
overall look.
1 POWDER BRUSH
A powder brush is the largest of the
brushes you need. It is used to apply
loose powder, typically after
foundation is applied. A powder
brush can also double as a tool to
blend makeup.
2 BLUSH BRUSH
A blush brush is a bit smaller than
and not as full as a powder brush.
Use the blush brush to apply cheek
color powder (rouge or bronzer).
You can also use this brush to apply
contour color.
3 LARGE EYE
SHADOW BRUSH
A large eye shadow brush
made of either natural or
synthetic bristles is great
for applying lighter eye
shadow pigments. I prefer a
shadow brush with firm
bristles, as I feel I have
more control over the
brush’s placement and less drop-off
(loose powder falling off the brush).
4 MEDIUM EYE
SHADOW BRUSH
(ALTERNATIVE: DOME EYE
SHADOW BRUSH)
A medium eye shadow
brush, made of either natural
or synthetic bristles, is ideal
for applying darker eye
shadow pigments. Again, as
a personal preference, I feel
a firm bristle allows more
control and distributes more
shadow pigment; a brush
with loose bristles does not
hold as much powder.
As an alternative to the flatter
medium eye shadow brush, a dome
shadow brush has dome- or round-
shaped bristles and comes to a point.
The dome brush fits into the crease of
the eye. The point deposits stronger
color into the crease, while the sides
of the dome blend the color on either
side.
5 ANGLE BRUSH
This brush is my favorite tool.
An angle brush is flat, cut at an
angle, and comes in both
synthetic and natural bristles.
You can use the angle brush
primarily for eyebrow color
and applying powder and gel
liner around the eye.
Why Two Shadow Brushes?
I included two shadow brushes because, if you
don’t clean your brushes regularly, it keeps the application less muddy. The larger brush is good for applying the overall color of a lighter shadow, while the smaller brush is good for more detail and
heavier, darker shadow.
OTHER BRUSHES
YOU CAN USE
There are so many more
brushes that assist in a
flawless application.
It’s important to understand what each
brush does. The following are some
brushes beyond my five must-haves you
can use to apply your makeup.
LIP BRUSH
This brush is typically synthetic due to
the fact lip colors are cream based. Its
slanted edge can help you create a well-defined lip shape.
FOUNDATION BRUSH
A foundation brush is made from
synthetic fibers and has a large head to
help you cover more surface area on the
face.
CONCEALER BRUSH
A concealer brush is made of synthetic
fibers. Its small, thin size is perfect for
applying concealer in smaller areas.
DUAL-FIBER BRUSH
A dual-fiber brush is made with a
mixture of animal and synthetic fibers.
It’s a great brush to blend powder,
liquid, or cream makeup, giving an
airbrushed look to your makeup
application.
BRONZER BRUSH
A bronzer brush is made from natural or
synthetic fibers and has a dome-shaped
head and dense bristles. As the name
implies, it’s used to apply powdered
bronzer.
KABUKI (MINERAL POWDER)
BRUSH
A kabuki (mineral powder) brush is
typically short with wide, round or flat
bristles. These bristles are dense to
assist in applying a stronger amount of
pigment.
ANGLED EYE SHADOW BRUSH
An angled eye shadow brush is perfect
for applying color into the crease of the eye, due to its contoured shape.
FINE-POINT EYELINER BRUSH
A fine-point eyeliner brush is made from
synthetic fibers and sometimes comes in
an angled ferrule. Its thin, pointed head
is great for detail work, making it useful
for applying liquid and gel eyeliner.
SMUDGE BRUSH
A smudge brush can be made from either
natural bristles or a sponge. This brush
is designed to blend (smudge) a
concentrated area, such as around the
eye.
BLENDING BRUSH
A blending brush is made with natural or
synthetic fibers, has a rounded head, and
can sometimes be a little larger than a
shadow brush. It’s meant to blend
shadow colors together, but you can also
use it to add highlights to the
cheekbones.
FAN BRUSH
A fan brush actually has several uses,
including applying blush, blending
powders, cleaning up excess powder,
and highlighting the cheekbones.
BROW BRUSH WITH COMB
A brow brush with comb is made with
synthetic bristles and has a plastic or
metal comb on one end. This tool is
designed to brush and comb eyebrow
hair.
The Best Tools of All … Your
Fingers!
If you are unable to invest in a foundation brush or concealer brush, your fingers will do the trick. You can use your ring finger to gently apply and blend
concealer under the eye area.
Beauty Sponges
Another handy tool for your arsenal is the beauty
sponge, an applicator without edges that helps to
distribute and blend makeup after application
without the appearance of lines. Think of it as the
difference between a paint brush (streaks) and a
roller brush (no lines).
DISPOSABLES
To assist in your makeup
application, I recommend
using some disposable items
along with your brushes.
These inexpensive disposable products
can be found in any drugstore. They
work in a pinch, are sanitary, and keep
your applications neat and clean.
COTTON
SWAB
Cotton swabs
are great
multipurpose
tools when applying and correcting your
makeup. You can use them to clean under
the eyes where shadow or liner has
smudged, clean around the lips, blend
eye shadow, and apply lip gloss.
MASCARA
WANDS
If you are in a
family that shares makeup, you should
invest in a box of disposable mascara
wands. This will help you avoid any
infections related to sharing the same
wand for a product so close to your
eyes.
MAKEUP
SPONGES
Makeup sponges,
also called
wedges, typically come in latex. Use
these sponges to apply and blend
foundation, to apply concealer, and to
clean edges around the eyes and lips
after makeup application. You can even
cut makeup sponges in half to save on
cost and waste.
BABY WIPES
I always have a package of baby wipes
on hand. They’re great tools to use
during application to clean the area
where a mistake
has occurred. In
addition, baby
wipes are a great
alternative to the
more costly facial
wipes. They also
have soothing
agents, such as
aloe, and are
available in
fragrance-free,
hypoallergenic
versions for
sensitive skin.
What’s good for a baby’s tender skin is
ideal for your face!
CHAPTER 2
SANITATION
Sanitation refers to the proper treatment
of and disposal of tools. Over time,
makeup products can become
contaminated and harbor bacteria.
Because your tools are moving from
products to your face, it’s important to
take care of both your face and your
tools. Therefore, it would be
irresponsible not to discuss sanitation
when it comes to makeup.
This chapter reviews cleanliness, how
to take proper care of your makeup
tools, and product expiration dates.
MAKEUP
REMOVER
The last thing you want to do
after a long workday or night
out on the town is take off
your makeup.
However, leaving your makeup on can
clog pores, cause pimples and
blackheads, and irritate the skin. It is
very important to use a makeup remover
prior to cleansing your face.
Makeup remover comes in three
different types:
• Makeup wipes: Ideal for women
who don’t have the time (or
patience!) for a lengthy cleansing
regimen, these wipes are made of
cloth dipped in facial cleanser.
Once you’ve removed your
makeup, you simply toss the whole
wipe into the trash.
• Oil-based cleansers: Oil is an
excellent ingredient to remove
makeup, especially water-soluble
products, because it dissolves the
oil on your face without stripping
away the natural oils your skin
needs. Typically, oil-based
products come in the form of
creams and should be removed
with cotton or a face towel.
• Water-based cleansers: These
cleansers remove makeup and tone
the skin, which returns the skin to
its natural pH (4.5 to 5.5). They’re
a great choice for sensitive skin.
Water-based makeup removers work
well for normal to oily skin, while oil-
based cleansers work well for dry skin
types. Whatever your skin needs, find a
cleansing regimen that works for you,
preferably with products that are
fragrance, chemical, and alcohol free.
Creating Your Own Makeup Remover
Don’t want to spend a lot of money on makeup
remover? With a few inexpensive ingredients, you
can create your own!
1 cup water
2 TB. baby shampoo
2 TB. extra-virgin olive oil
Combine water, baby shampoo, and extra-virgin
olive oil in a jar or container and shake; this will help the oil and water come together. When you’re
ready to use the remover, apply it to a cotton ball
and wipe it on your face.
BRUSH
CLEANER
Makeup brushes pick up dead
skin cells, dirt, oil, and
product.
When you don’t clean your brushes
regularly, you are mixing debris into
your products and onto your face.
Therefore, you must clean your makeup
brushes regularly to keep them sanitized.
The following are inexpensive tips to
clean and maintain your brushes:
• In between uses, use a baby wipe to help remove leftover makeup on the
brushes. I suggest using baby wipes
that do not contain a lot of baby oil
so you don’t leave any oily residue
on your brushes.
• Use dish soap and water to clean
your synthetic brushes. Shake out
any excess water and then lay them
on a towel to dry.
• Because natural bristle brushes are
similar to human hair, you can use
shampoo and water to clean them.
Once washed, shake out the excess
water, form the bristles back to
their original shape, and lay the
brushes on a towel to dry overnight.
Creating Your Own Brush Cleaner
Because makeup brush cleaner can be expensive,
here’s a way to make your own.
½ cup dish soap
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Pour dish soap and extra-virgin olive oil into a bowl.
Swirl the brush in the mixture and rinse under
warm water. Run the brush along your hand until
the water runs clear. Shake out any excess water
and lay the brush on a towel to dry overnight.
MAINTAINING
YOUR PENCILS
AND PENCIL
SHARPENER
Your lips and eyes can contain
debris and dead skin.
Therefore, always sharpen your
cosmetic pencils after every use and be certain to return the lid to the product in
order to keep your pencils clean.
Pencil sharpeners typically come with a
dispenser to catch shavings. They are
inexpensive and should be replaced
once a year. However, you should still
make sure to clean your pencil sharpener
after you use it. To do this, empty the
shavings and lead from the sharpener’s
inner compartment. Next, dip a cotton
swab in isopropyl alcohol (rubbing
alcohol) and work your way around the
inside of the compartment, as well as the
blade. The alcohol acts as a disinfectant.
(You may want to use a toothbrush to
remove cream from the pencils.)
Using the Correct Pencil Sharpener
Don’t use a graphite pencil sharpener (used for
number-2 pencils) on cosmetic pencils. They are
not nearly as effective, plus any cross-
contamination from regular pencils can lead to you
getting wood shavings and graphite in your eyes.
You can find sharpeners specific to cosmetic
pencils in the beauty section of your local
drugstore.
GETTING RID OF
DISPOSABLE
APPLICATORS
Cotton swabs, tissues, wooden spatulas,
and cotton balls are examples of
disposable applicators. All are great
tools in helping you achieve your
makeup look (or even removing makeup)
without any special cleaning before or
after. However, disposable applicators
are not meant for multiple uses. They
should be discarded upon completion of
your makeup application.
DISPOSAL DATES
I am required, as a makeup
artist, to invest in a vast
assortment of makeup. So you
can probably imagine the
internal confict I go through
when I decide to dispose of
makeup.
Needless to say, all makeup comes with
an expiration date. Your products
contain preservatives that keep them
from spoiling. Eventually, the products
will begin to break down and can
become contaminated.
Most cosmetic
products contain a
suggested disposal
date. Therefore, if
you aren’t sure when
to get rid of your product, look for the
universal product expiration label on it.
You should find a number indicating the
length of time a product can be used (for
example, 12m for 12 months).
Beyond that label, for safety and
sanitation purposes, the following are
the general recommended disposal dates
for your makeup:
• Mascara: 2 to 3 months
• Foundation: 6 to 12 months
• Eye shadow: 12 to 18 months
• Lipstick: 12 to 18 months
• Lip/eye pencil: 18 to 24 months
Returning Makeup
Did you know that most drugstores and cosmetic
counters will let you return gently used cosmetics?
Save your money by returning makeup you can’t or
decide not to use.
CHAPTER 3
SKIN CARE
Your face is the canvas to a beautiful
makeup application. Therefore, in order
to have people avoid painting on a dirty
canvas, I always start my makeup
consultations with a discussion about
good skin care—and I’ll do the same for
you.
In this chapter, I help you first determine
your skin type so you can know the
products best suited for your skin. This
chapter also discusses how what you eat
affects your skin, as well as products
you can purchase to support healthy skin.
SKIN TYPES
The first step to revealing
your beauty through makeup
application is good skin care.
To begin, you must determine your skin
type to find the products best suited for
you. Skin is generally classified into one
of five categories: normal, oily, dry,
combination, and sensitive.
NORMAL SKIN
Normal skin is the least problematic
type of skin; it’s not too dry and not
too oily. Other characteristics of
normal skin include the following:
• No or few imperfections
• No severe sensitivity
• Barely visible pores
• A radiant complexion
OILY SKIN
Oily skin can change depending on
the time of year or weather. It is
caused or made worse by stress,
hormones, and/or exposure to heat or
humidity. Other characteristics of
oily skin are the following:
• Overactive sebaceous (sweat)
glands
• Dull or shiny skin
• An excessive appearance of
blackheads, pimples, and
blemishes
DRY SKIN
Dry skin can crack; peel; or become
itchy, irritated, or inflamed. If your
skin is excessively dry, it can become
rough and scaly, especially on the
backs of your hands, arms, and legs.
Other characteristics of dry skin
include the following:
• Almost invisible pores
• A dull, rough complexion
• Red patches
• Less elasticity
• More visible lines
COMBINATION SKIN
Combination skin can be dry or
normal in some areas and oily in
others, such as the T-zone (nose,
forehead, and chin). You will
therefore need multiple products to
address these different areas. Other
characteristics of combination skin
include the following:
• Overly dilated pores
• Blackheads
• Shiny skin
SENSITIVE SKIN
Skin can become sensitive for a
variety of reasons. Most likely, it is
caused by a cosmetic product, food,
or your environment. You can attempt
to eliminate products that cause
sensitivity through trial and error.
Otherwise, I encourage you to consult
a dermatologist to diagnose the
sensitivity. Other characteristics of
sensitive skin include the following:
• Redness
• Itching
• Burning
• Dryness
TEN POWER
FOODS FOR
HEALTHY SKIN
Diet is a large factor in the
health of your skin.
As the saying goes, “you are what you
eat.” So before I get into skin care
products, let’s go over the 10 power
foods that aid in skin health:
• Cocoa powder: This contains
antioxidants that provide hydration.
The
caffeine in
cocoa
powder
also
benefits
circulation
in the skin.
• Coffee:
You will
find
caffeine as
an ingredient in many eye creams
due to its anti-inflammatory effects.
In the same way, drinking a cup of
caffeinated coffee can help you
reduce skin swelling and
inflammation.
• Fish: Fish contain omega-3 fatty
acids, which reduce inflammation.
This makes fish a great diet staple
for those with acne-prone skin.
• Fruits: Power fruits such as
blueberries, oranges, and
strawberries contain vitamin C, a
super antioxidant. Vitamin C boosts
the immune system, creates radiant
skin, and helps blemishes heal
properly.
• Nuts: Nuts contain protein, omega-
3 and -6, vitamin E, calcium, and
magnesium, all of which are good
for fighting aging.
• Olive oil: Free radicals can lead to
a loss of two things in your skin that
keep you looking young: collagen
and elastin. Olive oil has
antioxidant polyphenols that help
defend against these damaging free
radicals.
• Peppers: The antioxidants in
yellow and orange peppers help
decrease skin’s sensitivity to the
sun, meaning fewer wrinkles!
• Sweet potatoes: These contain vitamin C, which smooths wrinkles
by stimulating the production of
collagen.
• Tomatoes: These are full of
lycopene, a chemical that helps
eliminate skin-aging free radicals
caused by ultraviolet rays. Eating
tomatoes also protects against sun
damage.
• Water: Don’t forget about H2O!
Six to eight glasses of water a day
rejuvenate cell growth, making your
skin look plumper and more
hydrated.
CLEANSERS
Cleansers are essential in
removing dirt and makeup so
you have a fresh palette to
work with.
It is recommended that you only wash
your face twice daily—any more than
that, and you strip your skin of its
essential oils. Because there are many
types of cleansers, I find it best to
narrow down your choices by choosing
a cleanser based on your skin type.
Normal: You can use most cleansers on
this skin type.
Specifically, cleansers
that lather with water
and cleansers without
alcohol work best.
Cleansers with alcohol
can dry out your skin.
Oily: Cleansers that
are water-based are
great for oily skin.
Look for cleansers that
contain some type of acid, such as
salicylic. This acid gently removes oil
and reduces oil production.
Dry: Cleansers with moisturizers are
ideal for dry skin types. Avoid using
cleansers containing alcohol, as they can dry out your skin further.
Combination: The key to addressing
combination skin is to identify cleansers
that address the different problem areas.
Foaming cleansers that are pH-balanced
help correct combination skin. Avoid
using harsh cleansers that may inflame
areas of the skin.
Sensitive: Sensitive skin types have
difficulty tolerating most cleansers due
to the acids and strong detergents in
them. Therefore, look for cleansers that
are fragrance and preservative free. As
in combination skin, you also want
products that balance the skin’s pH
level.
Acne Cleansers
If you have acne-prone skin, look for cleansers that contain salicylic acid, which is a beta hydroxy acid used to treat acne. Cleansers specific to treating
acne will be clearly marked that they help with
acne-prone skin. Agents in these products assist in
topical removal of bacteria and dirt and the cleaning of overactive sebaceous (sweat) glands.
EXFOLIANTS
Exfoliants are designed to
remove dead cells from the
surface of your skin. There
are two types of exfoliants:
mechanical and chemical.
Mechanical exfoliants contain
abrasives such as microbeads, ground
seeds, sugar, and salt. Almost any skin
type can use a mechanical exfoliant.
However, if you have sensitive skin, you
may find this type of exfoliant to be
abrasive.
Chemical exfoliants contain a lower concentration of “safe-to-use” acids.
Chemical exfoliation is great for all skin
types, but especially for those suffering
with acne. This is because the acids
used in chemical exfoliations go deeper
into the skin, helping to unclog pores and
reduce sebum (sweat) production.
Caution!
I strongly encourage you not to use exfoliants with
microbeads on your face. One reason is they may
create abrasions (cuts) in your skin. Another
argument against microbeads is they are bad for
the environment. If the product is not organic, the
microbeads may be made from plastics, which
can’t be filtered during water treatment and will
therefore cause them to wind up back in our lakes
and oceans.
Lip Exfoliation
Did you know your lips also benefit from
exfoliation? Removing debris and dead skin allows
your lip product to adhere better and keeps lips
healthy looking. One way to exfoliate your lips is
with a soft or baby toothbrush. Another option is to use a lip scrub, which you can find in any skin care aisle. Whatever you decide, finish your exfoliation
with a hydrating lip balm.
TONERS
I am going to be honest with
you. For the longest time, I
had no idea what a toner was
or why I should use the
product. Therefore, I’d like to
share what I’ve learned with
you so you know how
important it is to use toner on
your skin
Cleansers and exfoliants have an acid
included as an ingredient. Acids (such as
lactic or salicylic acid) are approved
ingredients to gently remove dead skin,
reduce oily skin, and unclog your pores.
However, these acids change the pH of
the skin, which is typically between 4.5
and 5.5, as you can see on the following
scale.
To leave the skin at a lower pH would
cause the skin to dry. A toner is pH
balanced to return skin to its proper pH
level. Additionally, toners remove
excess debris and reduce pore size.
Toner can be applied either by a spray
mist or by using a cotton ball. I
recommend applying toner after
cleansing and exfoliation and before
applying serums and moisturizers.
EYE CREAMS
Eye creams are used to reduce
swelling, dark circles, and
wrinkles.
The under-eye area contains much
thinner skin and does not contain the
sweat glands needed to keep the area
moist. Therefore, it can be helpful to
invest in an eye cream appropriate to
your needs. As you mature, the collagen
(which provides elasticity) begins to
break down. Eye creams contain
ingredients such as retinol to replace
collagen and reduce the signs of aging.
The most common issues people use eye cream to combat are dark circles,
puffiness, and fine lines and wrinkles.
The following addresses the ingredients
you should look for in an eye cream to
treat those issues.
Dark circles: Contributors to dark
circles include genetics, fatigue, broken
capillaries, allergies, poor nutrition,
age, and sun exposure. While a change
of diet and lifestyle may still be the best
way to combat or reduce dark circles in
the long run, an eye cream that contains
brightening agents like vitamin C,
licorice, kojic acid, and niacinamide can
help counter excess pigmentation and
help stop the oxidation process that occurs on the surface of the skin.
Retinols, peptides, and ceramides also
work by thickening and strengthening the
skin, making broken capillaries appear
less visible.
Puffiness: While consuming salty foods
and alcohol are the main reasons for
puffiness under the eye, another way to
combat this issue is to use an eye cream
that contains caffeine. Most experts
believe that caffeine stimulates
circulation and constricts the blood
vessels under the skin, diminishing the
look of puffy eyes. As an antioxidant, it
also protects the skin from sun damage.
Fine lines and wrinkles: If fine lines and wrinkles are your main concern,
look for an eye cream that contains
retinol, a powerful antioxidant embraced
by dermatologists and estheticians alike
for its ability to smooth lines and
wrinkles. Aside from assisting in the
production of healthy skin cells, retinol
works by hampering the breakdown of
collagen (a protein that gives the skin
structure, firmness, and elasticity).
MOISTURIZERS
Once toning and exfoliation
are complete, you finally can
apply a moisturizer.
Moisturizers contain humectants
(conditioning agents) that return moisture
to the skin and help to keep water intact.
Because removing makeup can be
strenuous on the skin, finding the right
moisturizer also helps to keep the skin
healthy and fresh.
The table includes the composition of
moisturizers you should look for based
on your skin type.
Skin
Moisturizer
Type
Dry skin
Heavier, oil-based
moisturizers
Oily skin
Lighter, water-based
moisturizers
Mature skin Oil-based
moisturizers
Sensitive
Moisturizers with
skin
soothing ingredients
(such as aloe) that are
fragrance and
preservative free
Normal/
Lighter, water-based
combination moisturizers
skin
Moisturizers with SPF
Whenever possible, find a moisturizer with a sun
protection factor (SPF). This refers to the
theoretical amount of time you can stay in the sun
without getting sunburned. For example, an SPF of
15 would allow you to stay in the sun 15 times
longer than you could without protection. The SPF
level needed depends on how fair your skin is—
obviously the fairer you are, the higher the SPF you should go with.
By using a moisturizer with SPF, you’re protecting
against ultraviolet (UV) radiation, the skin’s worst enemy. These invisible rays are part of the energy that comes from the sun and can damage the skin,
potentially leading to melanoma and other types of skin cancer.
PART 2
BREAKING
DOWN YOUR
LOOK
CHAPTER 4
CORRECTIVE
MAKEUP
When decorating a house, an interior
decorator must consider balance, scale,
and proportion when planning furniture
and accessory placement. These same
principles apply to your makeup
application. Corrective makeup is about
moving your face toward the most
attractive shape, balance, and
proportion.
In this chapter, I first dissect the face and
define its proportions. I then give you
tips on how to highlight and contour your
face to achieve the most desirable look.
ANALYZING
YOUR FACE
Before you jump into applying
corrective makeup to your
face, it’s important to know
what “corrections” you need
to make.
Beyond simple spot cover-up, corrective
makeup is about achieving balance and
proportion and giving your face an
attractive shape. So let’s take a moment
to break down the face and its
proportions.
THE THREE
FACE
SEGMENTS
The face is a three-
dimensional object that
can be divided into equal
parts. The perfect face shape will have
equal distance from the forehead to the
eyebrow, the eyebrow to the tip of the
nose, and the nose to the chin. The goal
in corrective makeup is to create
equality between these three segments
using highlights and shadows for
balance.
FACE PROFILE
Another part of the three-dimensional
face is the profile. There are three face
profiles: vertical, concave, and convex.
VERTICAL
This is the perfect face profile. The
plane between the forehead and chin is
straight up and down. This face profile
does not require corrective makeup.
CONCAVE
This profile curves inward, making the
forehead and chin more pronounced. You
can create proportion within a concave
profile by applying a contour color to
the forehead and cheek. This will reduce
and balance the profile.
CONVEX
This face profile curves out like a
contact lens, while the forehead and chin
slope inward and are less pronounced.
By highlighting the forehead and the
chin, you can create the illusion of
harmony and proportion, creating a
complementary relationship between the
entire face profile.
WIDTH OF
FACE
The perfect
width of a face is three eye widths
across. If you remove the third eye, you
have the ideal spacing between the eyes.
Corrective makeup will allow you to
bring the eye shape inward using contour
or outward using highlighting.
FACE SHAPE
The face shape is the surface of the front of the head from the top of the forehead
to the base of the chin and from ear to
ear. There are six different face shapes:
oval, oblong, heart, diamond, square,
and round. I’ll discuss the
characteristics of each face shape here;
later, you’ll learn how to highlight and
contour by your face shape.
Oval: This is considered the most
desirable and ideal face shape because
it’s a third less wide than it is long and
doesn’t have any major corners around
the hairline or jawline. The oval face
shape is round on top and curves down
like an inverted egg.
Round: On a round face shape, the
cheeks are the widest part of the face,
with soft corners at the forehead and
jawline.
Square: The width of the forehead,
cheekbones, and jawline are equal on a
square face shape.
The “Perfect” Face
During the European Renaissance, renowned
artists and architects used an equation known as
the “golden ratio” to map out their masterpieces.
Thousands of years later, scientists adopted this
mathematical formula to help explain why some
people are considered beautiful. The golden ratio is a scale from 1 to 10 (with 10 considered the
perfect face shape).
The first test is dividing the length of the face by the width. The ideal result—as defined by the
golden ratio—is roughly 1.6, which means a
beautiful person’s face is about 1½ times longer
than it is wide.
Next, the three segments of the face—from the
forehead hairline to a spot between the eyes, from
between the eyes to the bottom of the nose, and
from the bottom of the nose to the bottom of the
chin—are measured. If the numbers are equal, a
person is considered more beautiful.
Finally, statisticians measure other facial features to determine symmetry and proportion. On a perfect
face, for example, the length of an ear is equal to
the length of the nose, and the width of an eye is
equal to the distance between the eyes.
Worried you don’t have what’s considered the
“perfect” face? There’s good news. Scientists have
never found a person with a perfect 10!
Oblong (Rectangle): This face is
similar to a square; however, the oblong
face shape is longer than it is wide.
Heart: Think about a heart and you’ll
understand what comprises this face
shape. It is widest at the forehead and
slightly less wide at the cheek, while the
jawline is small and pointy.
Diamond: The diamond face shape has a
narrow hairline and jawline and
prominent cheekbones.
USING
HIGHLIGHT AND
CONTOUR
Corrective makeup is about
simply using highlights (light)
and contour (dark) to change
the shape of the face.
Whether it’s a crooked nose you would
like to straighten, eyes you would like to
emphasize, or a strong jawline you wish
to soften, corrective makeup highlights
features you find attractive and hides any
features you find less flattering. While full corrective makeup is a bit more
challenging and is not needed every day,
knowledge of corrective makeup will be
transformative.
The rule of thumb when doing corrective
makeup on your face is to use a highlight
one to two shades lighter and a contour
one to two shades darker than your skin
tone. If you’ll be in a venue that’s more
dimly lit (such as a restaurant in the
evening), you can go up to three shades
lighter and darker respectively. (I will
break down highlighting and contouring
specific facial features in the following
chapters.)
HIGHLIGHTING PRODUCTS
Highlighting is the process of lightening
an area to bring it forward or make it
more prominent. The following are
products you can use to achieve a
highlight on the face.
Powder: You can use a light matte
powder or a light shimmering powder,
whether pressed or loose, to highlight
features.
Cream: You can find cream makeup in
tubes, pencils, and pots. It is a great
choice for highlighting, because it
creates a dewy glow to the skin.
CONTOURING PRODUCTS
Contour is the use of shadows or shading
to reduce features on the face. It’s about
the shade (slight degree of difference
between colors) you use in contouring.
In most instances, you will want to
choose colors that are matte, as makeup
with shimmer or glitter reflects light and
draws focus to the area—the opposite effect contour is designed to achieve.
While many cosmetic companies have
packaged “contouring” palettes, the
following are some individual products
you can use to contour.
Eye and cheek shadow: Matte shadows
in shades of red, orange, and brown
(depending on your skin tone) are
popular for contouring. A pressed or
loose shadow powder is a great choice
for oily skin types.
Cream: Cream makeup is great for
normal to dry skin types to use for
contouring. Like eye shadow used for
contouring, cream contour should be a shade of red, orange, or brown
(depending on your skin tone).
Tinted powders: Tinted powders come
in many contour shades. They are
sheerer than a pressed powder, which
can help you achieve a more natural
look.
Bronzer: If you are trying to achieve a
more sun-kissed look, you can use
bronzer as a contour.
Corrective Makeup Note
Highlighting and contouring your face should be an
illusion. Therefore, choose colors close to your skin tone to keep it looking natural. If you use a matte
powder for contour and a cream for a highlighter,
you will give your face a natural shine.
HIGHLIGHTING AND
CONTOURING BY FACE
SHAPE
Now that you know the parts of the face
and what highlighting and contouring
products you can use, it’s time to learn
how to highlight and contour based on
your face shape. Remember, the goal of
corrective makeup is to reduce or
enhance portions of the face so they
more resemble an oval, which is the
ideal face shape.
OVAL
Highlight: Apply highlight on the
forehead, under the eyes, and on the
chin. The highlights accentuate and
brighten these areas of the oval face.
Contour: Contour is not needed since
the oval is the ideal face shape.
ROUND
Highlight: Apply highlight to the center
of the forehead and chin to bring the eye
more to the center.
Contour: Apply contour to the jawline
to reduce fullness and from the temple to
the hairline to lessen the face’s
roundness.
SQUARE
Highlight: Apply highlight on the
forehead and on the chin. This softens
the strong lines of a square face.
Contour: Apply contour to both sides of
the forehead and from the jawline to below the ear. This essentially reduces
the “four corners” that create a square
shape.
Identifying Your Face Shape
Still not sure what highlighting and contouring you
need for your face? Here’s quick and fun way to
identify your face shape!
1. Stand in front of a mirror with overhead
lighting, such as in your bathroom.
2. Pull your hair and bangs away from your
face.
3. Using lipstick, quickly outline your face on
the mirror (excluding the ears).
4. Step back and look at the shape.
OBLONG (RECTANGLE)
Highlight: Apply highlight on the chin to
attract attention to the center of the face.
Contour: Apply contour to the cheeks to
reduce the length of the face.
HEART
Highlight: Apply highlight to the center
of forehead and on either side of the chin
to give the face more fullness.
Contour: Apply contour at the corners
of the forehead and to the cheeks to
reduce their width. It should also be applied on the bottom of the chin to
soften its pointiness.
DIAMOND
Highlight: Apply highlight to the middle
of the forehead and on the chin to
emphasize the center of the face.
Because the diamond face shape has
pronounced cheekbones, however, it
does not always need a highlighter.
Contour: Apply contour on the outside
of the cheekbones to diminish their
width.
CHAPTER 5
FOUNDATION
Foundation is the first step to makeup
application. It is skin-colored makeup
used to even skin tone, cover skin flaws,
and sometimes even change the color of
the face. As its name denotes, it is laying
the foundation for the entire application.
That is why it’s important to educate
yourself on the correct product for you.
In this chapter, I discuss how to identify your skin tone, types of foundation and
coverage, and how to apply foundation.
HOW TO
IDENTIFY YOUR
SKIN TONE
Human skin ranges from the
darkest brown to the lightest
pinkish-white.
Skin color is a result of the body’s need
to protect itself from UV rays. Skin color
is affected by many substances, the
primary one being melanin, which is a
group of natural pigments found in most
organisms. The level of skin
pigmentation shows a close
correspondence with latitude—people
living near the equator tend to have dark
skin, while light-skinned people mostly
live nearer the poles.
Skin tone refers to the “undertone” or
secondary color of the skin. It is not
what you think of as fair, olive, tan, or
dark; instead, it refers to the coloring
under the skin. For example, someone
who has fair skin might exhibit some
redness in the skin; that redness is the
undertone. You may have heard of your
skin tone referred to in terms of being a
Winter, Spring, Summer, or Fall tone.
Currently, the terminology makeup artists
use for skin tone is warm and cool;
check out the following color chart to
see what colors comprise these skin
tones.
The following
are some tests
you can try to
see if you are a
warm or cool
tone:
• Put on some
jewelry or look
at whatever
jewelry you’re
already
wearing. If you
look better in
gold jewelry,
you most likely
have warm undertones. If you look
better in silver jewelry, you most
likely have cool undertones.
• Look at the veins in your arms. If
they appear greenish, you are likely
to have warm undertones. If they
appear blue, you have cool
undertones.
• Your hair never lies! If you tend to
pull more copper and gold tones in
your hair, you are likely to have
warm tones. If your hair is neutral
to ash (blue) in color, you are likely
to have cool tones.
• The clothes you look good in can
also indicate your skin tone. If you
look better in white or black
fabrics, you are cool toned. If you
look better in brown and off-white
fabrics, you are warm toned.
• When you spend time in the sun, do you burn easily? If you do, you are
most likely cool toned. However, if
you tan easily, you are most likely
warm toned.
Neutral Tone
Can’t decide what your skin tone is based on these
tests? You may just be neutral toned. People who
have neutral tones look good in all colors, though
they may personally favor the color palette of one
tone over the other.
TYPES OF
FOUNDATION
There are several types of
foundation, and each works
very differently on the skin to
maximize its beauty.
The following table goes over the
different attributes of each of the
traditional types of foundation. Take a
look and see which one you think would
work best for you.
THE SPECIAL CASE OF
MINERAL MAKEUP
Beyond the options I listed previously,
you can also choose to use mineral
makeup. Mineral makeup is comprised
of all the same ingredients as regular
foundation (mica, titanium oxide, zinc
oxide, and iron oxides). However, it contains a light sunblock and anti-inflammatory properties and does not
include parabens, preservatives, mineral
oil, dyes, or fragrance, making it a
healthy choice for the skin.
When concealing skin with minimal
issues, I suggest you use a full-coverage
foundation instead of a concealer; a full-
coverage foundation will be less thick
and more natural. Apply your foundation
or concealer under your eyes and around
the nose, and dab on blemishes or other
small areas where you want full
coverage. You can then apply your
mineral foundation makeup (with a
foundation brush or kabuki brush) all over your face. Blend the mineral
makeup into the areas that you want
concealed, and finish your look by
spraying your face with a hydration mist.
Your result will be beautiful, natural-
looking skin.
If you would like to learn how to make
your own mineral makeup, check out
Idiot’s Guides: Making Natural Beauty
Products.
Did You Know?
While mineral makeup originally started out as a
loose powder, you can now buy mineral makeup in
beautiful eye shadows, blushes, and bronzers.
Using a Kabuki Brush for Mineral Makeup
A kabuki brush is a brush specifically made for the
application of mineral makeup. With its short handle and dense bristles, it is designed to hold more
powder for more coverage.
LEVEL OF COVERAGE
Another thing you should consider when
choosing foundation is the level of
coverage you’d like. There are three
types of foundation coverage: sheer to
light, medium, and full.
Sheer to light coverage: This type of
foundation coverage is lightweight and
transparent, with very little coverage. It
evens skin tone; however, this won’t
cover flaws.
Medium coverage: With this type of
coverage, you can reduce the appearance
of small blemishes and uneven skin tone.
However, it won’t completely disguise
the skin from its natural color and
imperfections.
Full coverage: This type of coverage
completely covers flaws and uneven
skin tone. However, it can clog pores
and may encourage skin breakouts.
Choosing the Right
Foundation
When choosing a
foundation, test the
foundation on your neck
leading into your jawline
rather on your face. Your
face can easily be a
different shade than the
rest of your body due to sun or irritation, so the goal is to match your face with your body. A good rule
of thumb is to go slightly darker rather than lighter in color if you have a fair to medium skin tone in
order to avoid looking like you have a “mask” on.
On the other hand, if you have a darker skin tone,
use a foundation slightly lighter than your natural
skin tone to brighten your face and allow your
makeup application to stand out.
FINISHES
Foundations come in three types of
finishes, which can alter the look of your
skin: matte, shimmer, and dewy.
Matte: Foundation with a matte finish
does not contain a reflecting agent. This
makes it the best product to use when
contouring your face.
Shimmer: A shimmer finish foundation
contains reflecting agents that draw
attention to your makeup, creating a
more dramatic look. Because shimmer
foundation reflects light, it can be used
as a highlighter above the cheekbone to
the temple.
Dewy: Foundation with a dewy finish
contains moisturizers to create a fresh,
youthful, and luminous look. If you have
mature or dry skin, it can also be used to
make your skin look more hydrated.
Making Your Own
Tinted Moisturizer
To create your own tinted
moisturizer, place a little
concealer with a quarter-
size amount of your favorite
facial moisturizer on your
hand. Mix with your fingers
or a cotton swab and then apply to your face. Voilà, tinted moisturizer!
FOUNDATION
TOOLS
There are three primary tools
you can use to apply
foundation: a sponge, a brush,
or your fingers.
Whatever you decide to use, apply the
foundation in downward strokes to
avoid elevating your fine facial hair.
SPONGES
The most common types
of makeup sponges are latex and natural
sponges. Latex sponges are disposable
and are only good for one-time
application, while natural sponges (such
as sea foam) are designed for multiple-
use applications. Both types of sponges
can be used for both dry and damp
foundation application. Additional
benefits of using a sponge include more
control of the product, a sheer and
lightweight application, and an
inexpensive investment.
BRUSHES
I like to think of a
foundation brush as a
“paint brush.” A foundation brush has a
larger head, allowing for more coverage
during application. Its bristles are also
synthetic, which allows for easy
cleaning. The benefit of applying
foundation with a brush is that it keeps
the spread of bacteria (and therefore
acne) to a minimum. While this brush
may cause some streaking, you can
stipple or tap your brush over the
foundation to have a more even
application.
FINGERS
Fingers are the best
tools you have at your
disposal! Using your hands and fingers allows you to feel and control the
application of foundation, leading to
better blending.
APPLYING
FOUNDATION
The following walks you
through how to best apply
foundation.
1. Before you apply your foundation,
moisturize your face. If you recall
from my discussion of skin care,
foundation will go on much more
evenly when the face is
moisturized.
2. Apply foundation to the back of
your hand. Your hand will warm up
the foundation, allowing it to go on
more smoothly.
3. Swiping the foundation off your
hand, start applying in the center of
your face (the sides of your nose)
and work outward. Blend the
foundation evenly throughout your
face, paying close attention to
discolored areas of the face that
may need a bit more foundation.
CHAPTER 6
TINTED
PRIMERS,
CONCEALERS,
AND TATTOO
COVERS
Primers, concealers, and tattoo covers
are designed to provide the coverage foundation cannot. While foundations
assist in changing overall skin color and
evening out skin tone, in some instances,
blemishes, dark circles, and even tattoos
can’t get the coverage they need. Tinted
primers are applied first to improve
coverage of your makeup and its
duration. Concealers can then be used to
cover dark circles, discoloration, age
spots, and blemishes. And if you need to
cover up a tattoo, tattoo covers give you
the thickness and coverage you need.
In this chapter, I discuss the products and
application in regard to tinted primers,
concealers, and tattoo covers.
TINTED PRIMER
A cosmetic primer is a cream
or lotion applied before
concealer and foundation;
think of it as priming a wall
for painting.
Through this, you can help reduce
creases in your makeup and the visible
signs of crow’s feet. Primer also
removes color so the shades you want to
achieve will be more successful. There
are primers for the eyelids, face, and
lips that are used to address
discoloration from under-eye circles,
blemishes, scars, and so on.
If you are experiencing
discoloration and dull or
lifeless skin, tinted
primers may be a great
choice for you. These
come in shades that
follow the law of complementary colors
(other than neutral). For example, if the
color is red, its complementary color is
green. If you mix red and green together,
you get a shade of beige/brown.
Consequently, if your blemish is red and
you apply a green primer, you will
neutralize the color to beige.
How Much?
Just a dab will do you! You
need only to apply the smallest
amount of primer to achieve the
proper results. If you apply too
much, you may struggle with neutralizing the
pigment.
The following are the four tinted primers
and how they apply the idea of
complementary colors to coverage:
Red: This primer appears more pink and
is a great product to put on your skin
when it appears sallow (yellow-green).
You can also mix it with your tinted
foundation and then apply it to make your skin appear brighter.
Green: This primer is the
complementary color to red, meaning it’s
the ideal primer for neutralizing redness
in the skin. You can cover a blemish or
rosacea with a dab of green primer.
Yellow: This is the complementary color
to violet and is found in most
highlighting creams. Yellow reflects
light, giving your skin a more glowing
appearance.
Purple: The complementary color to
yellow, a thin amount of light purple
primer helps reduce yellow tones in the
skin. It also helps mature skin appear less dull.
CONCEALER
Concealer is a flesh-toned
cosmetic product that’s
similar to foundation but
thicker.
I consider it to be one of the most
important steps in makeup application. It
would be a mistake to think of concealer
simply as a “cover-up.” Instead, think of
concealer as a play on light and a
manipulation of color. For example, if
you are trying to cover dark circles (a
shade or two darker than your skin
color), you need to find a concealer that
is a shade or two lighter than your actual
skin color to counterbalance the
discoloration.
TYPES OF CONCEALER
Concealer is full-coverage makeup that
comes in liquid, cream, and powder
form. Each can benefit your skin in
different ways.
Liquid: This is great for dry skin, has a
lighter finish, and is great for hydration.
Liquid concealer can be used anywhere
you need to cover imperfections.
Additionally, it hydrates the under-eye
area while reducing the look of dark circles and discoloration.
Cream: Much thicker than liquid
concealer, you use a cream concealer
when you have dark circles, pimples,
scars, and bruises.
Powder:
Typically found
in the mineral
makeup line, this
type of concealer
is great on oily
skin. Powder concealer is best used
when you are experiencing a little
discoloration or a small skin
imperfection.
CONCEALER PACKAGING
You can find concealer in the form of
sticks, compacts/containers, tubes, or
pencils. The packaging is designed to
assist you in easy application and spot
treatment. The following is what
typically comprises each type of
concealer package.
Stick: Cream concealers typically come
in a thin stick. They have a cream
consistency and are good for covering
blemishes.
Compact/container: Cream and powder
concealers may come in a container,
either as a compact or a container with a
lid.
Tube: Liquid concealers come in a tube.
You can either squeeze the product out
or use an applicator that is included on
the tube (like you would see on a lip
gloss tube).
Pencil: Pencil concealers are thicker
products that come in a pencil form.
They are great for spot treating areas and
for concealing your lips. Be careful
when applying it under the eyes,
however, since the skin there is thinner
and requires a lighter touch.
Color-Correcting
Concealer
Color-correcting concealer is a
last resort when flesh-tone
concealer doesn’t work well
enough to cover or neutralize
severe discolorations. It is most
commonly available in cream or
stick form and is a thicker
consistency than a tinted primer
(which tends to be liquid and go
on more sheer).
If you decide to try a color-
correcting concealer, apply it
before your foundation; this
helps to neutralize and balance
the unnatural color of it. You
also can pair it with a flesh-tone
concealer with the same finish,
so that when the foundation is
applied on top, there is no
indication of the color corrector
underneath.
The following are the different
color-correcting concealers and
what they correct depending on
your concern:
• Lavender: Counteracts
sallow or yellowness in the
skin
• Yellow: Counteracts deep
purple tones, such as dark
circles or scarring; also
works well to highlight
brows and cheekbones
when pale yellow
• Green: Neutralizes
redness, including diffuse
redness from rosacea
• Pink: Neutralizes a blue
cast on lighter skin tones;
can enliven very pale skin
• Orange/salmon:
Neutralizes blue to deep
purple or grayish tones on
deeper skin tones
APPLYING CONCEALER
Typically you apply concealer under the
eyes and around the nose and mouth.
Additionally, you can use concealer to
conceal blemishes, scars, and bruises.
The following are some helpful tips on
the best ways to apply concealer.
• Apply concealer under the eye with your ring finger, which tends to
have the lightest touch. You can
place it right below the tear ducts
by tapping it lightly in a U-shaped
pattern from the inside to the
outside of the eye.
• Use an angle or eyeliner brush to
dab concealer onto the top of any
blemishes. Doing so helps to
concentrate the product on top of
the blemish.
• To reduce the look of puffy eyes, use
a hydrating (liquid) concealer two
shades lighter than your skin tone
and apply it under the eye with your ring finger, a brush, or a beauty
sponge.
Other Concealer Tips and Tricks
Concealer can be your best friend. Here are some
concealer secrets to assist in making your
application flawless!
• Are you having a difficult time cove ring
your dark unde r-e ye circle s? Use a
hydrating eye cream to plump up the under-
eye area before applying your concealer.
• Want to ge t rid of those fine line s? All you need is a wrinkle-filling serum and some liquid
concealer. Squeeze a bit of the wrinkle filler
onto your finger, dab it into the wrinkle, and
blend until it is barely noticeable. You can then
top with the liquid concealer to completely
hide that fine line.
• Expe rie ncing proble ms with cove ring
une ve n skin tone ? You don’t want to
overdo the concealing when you have uneven
skin tones; otherwise, it can look extremely
unflattering and unnatural. So start with your
full-coverage foundation and place it on with a
clean foundation brush or sponge. From there,
dot on your yellow-based concealer and blend!
• Would you like to we ar that fabulous
skirt, but you’re afraid to e xpose those
pe sky spide r ve ins on your body? Use a
pencil or wand-style concealer (in your skin
tone) that will allow for the most coverage and
control and trace over the veins. Blend the
concealer with your pinkie finger and set with
some pressed translucent powder!
• Do you have a re d and irritate d nose due
to a cold or alle rgie s? To get rid of the
redness first, avoid a moisturizer; instead, just
use a flat-tipped concealer brush or Q-tip with a bit of yellow-based concealer right around
the red areas of your nose. Next, really blend
on your foundation to neutralize the rest of the
redness. Finally, cover it up with a bit of
translucent powder!
TATTOO COVER
Have you ever tried to cover
a tattoo for a wedding or a
formal function?
Foundations and concealers don’t work
well because they are usually sheer,
slightly translucent, and simply won’t
cover the ink.
When you need to cover a tattoo, the
product you want to use is tattoo cover
(sometimes called camouflage cover).
Tattoo cover has the same effect as a
concealer, with the main difference
being simply thickness. Tattoo cover is very thick with a matte finish to cover up
the dark and multicolored inks used in
tattoos. Stores sell tattoo wheels or
palettes with multiple shades. Because
skin isn’t typically one color, the
multiple shades are helpful in creating a
more realistic look for your skin.
Ready to try covering your tattoo? The
following walks you through how to do
so.
Can’t Find Tattoo Cover?
If you do not have access to tattoo cover, you can use a full-coverage foundation or even theatrical makeup.
However, you may need a few extra coats to achieve
the same coverage.
Choose a shade lighter than your skin
color and press the cover-up into the
area. You do not want to rub or brush the
product into your skin, as it will move
the product around, making it difficult to
fully cover the tattoo.
Use a setting powder to set the tattoo
cover. If you can still see the tattoo,
repeat covering the tattoo with the same
shade of tattoo cover and then set with
powder.
Choose three different-color shades of
tattoo cover—one closest to your skin
color, one slightly lighter, and one
slightly darker. Using your fingers or a
porous sponge, tap the shades over the
area of your tattoo. This will replicate
the different tones in the skin. Powder
the area and repeat the process of
tapping in the color shades as many
times as necessary. Once you are left
with a circle of product on your tattoo,
blend the edges of the tattoo cover into
your skin to even it out.
Liquid Skin
Liquid Skin is typically used as a liquid bandage, but
it also works well in enabling tattoo cover application. You can apply a thin layer of it over
your tattoo and allow it to dry before following the steps for covering your tattoo. Liquid Skin is
available in the first-aid section of your local
drugstore.
CHAPTER 7
CHEEKS
The cheeks are an important aspect of a
makeup look. Cheek color can add a
glow, change the face shape, and create
drama. Everyone has the right to have
amazing cheekbones! Do you feel you
have nonexistent cheekbones? Are you
uncertain about which cheek color is
right for you?
In this chapter, I discuss the different cheek color products available, as well
as how to create beautiful cheekbones
based on your face shape and through the
application of highlight, contour, and
cheek color.
CHEEK COLOR
PRODUCTS
Cheek color comes in several
different shades, typically
ranging in the red and orange
families.
This pop of color can provide a healthy
glow and give your face more balance.
You can find cheek color in cream,
powder, or mineral forms. Take a look at
each type and see which is right for you.
Choosing the
Right Color for
Your Cheeks
Cheek color comes in
warm and cool, so
when picking out a
color, consider your
“undertone,” as
discussed in Chapter 5.
The wrong color could make or break your final
look. A good rule of thumb is to match your cheek
color to your lip color.
Cream: This type of cheek color goes
on sheer and provides a dewy look to
the cheek. It should be applied with a
synthetic blush brush, a sponge, or your
fingers. You should use
cream color if you have
normal or dry skin.
Powder: This cheek color
tends to be more matte in
finish and is applied to the
cheeks with a blush brush.
Powder cheek color is
great for oily skin.
Mineral: This cheek
color, applied with a
blush or kabuki brush,
is easy to blend with
mineral foundation. It
goes on sheer and illuminates the cheeks.
Mineral cheek color is good for all skin
types, especially sensitive and mature
skin.
Bronzer: This type
of cheek color
provides a natural,
sun-kissed glow
without exposing
your skin to the sun’s
harmful UV rays.
Bronzer comes in cream, powder, and
mineral forms (depending on your skin
type). Matte bronzers also make an
excellent contour. Depending on its
consistency, you can apply bronzer with
a blush brush, a sponge, or your fingers.
HIGHLIGHTING
AND
CONTOURING
YOUR CHEEKS
If you choose to contour
anything on your face, I
would consider the cheeks to
be at the top of the list.
A great cheek/cheekbone changes your
face shape and directs the emphasis to
the middle of your face. Plus, if you
think your face is too round or your cheeks are too plump, you can rectify
any problems and get the “supermodel
cheeks” you crave. To change the shape
of a cheekbone, similar to what you’ve
learned with corrective makeup, you
need a lighter shade (highlight) and a
darker shade (contour).
Highlight: Because highlighting creates
emphasis to the area, your highlight
color should be a half to full shade
lighter than your skin tone. Highlight
colors come in powder and cream.
• Powder highlight is a great choice
for those with oily skin. Some
products may include a shimmer for
additional glow.
• Cream highlight provides more
hydration for those with normal to
dry skin. Cream highlights naturally
look shinier than powder, which
makes them a great choice for a
highlight.
Contour: Because contouring creates a
shadow effect, your contour color should
be a half to full shade darker than your
natural skin tone. You can use either
matte powder or matte cream.
• Powder contour is a great choice
for those with oily skin and goes on
matte.
• Cream contour provides more
hydration for those with normal to
dry skin. Cream contour is also
easy to blend.
Cheeks in High Definition
Mix a cream cheek color with a little of your foundation and then apply it to your cheeks. The
cream color will blend better with the foundation,
giving your face a more uniform look.
If you choose to change the shape of your
cheeks, you can follow these three easy
steps.
1. Look into the mirror while you suck
in your cheeks. With a blush brush,
apply your contour between the
bottom of the cheekbone and above
the jawline. This helps to reduce
the area of the cheek you want to
appear slimmer.
2. Take your fingers and feel your
cheekbone start under the center of
your eye and moving back to your
temple. Add a light powder or
cream as a highlight to make this
area more prominent. This also
brightens the eye area while
providing definition.
3. Apply your cheek color between
the highlight and the contour, and
then blend all three together.
APPLYING
HIGHLIGHT,
CONTOUR, AND
BLUSH BY FACE
SHAPE
Now that you know about how
to highlight and contour your
cheeks, as well as change the
shape of your cheeks, it’s time
to bring these together.
The following shows you how to apply
highlight, contour, and blush based on
your face shape.
OVAL
Remember, oval is the
ideal face shape.
Therefore, highlight and
contour will not be
needed unless you want
to accentuate the hollows of the
cheeks or upper cheekbones. The
ideal placement of cheek color
would be to apply the blush across
the cheekbones; however, keep it to
just under the outside of the eye, not
to the temples. Because your facial
features are so balanced, there’s no
need to apply the blush lower on your
face; doing so would make your jaw
look heavier.
ROUND
Your goal for a round
face is to reduce the
roundness of the cheeks
by cutting the cheeks in half—
colorwise, of course.
Highlight: Apply highlight to the
center of the face—the forehead,
under the eyes, and the chin—to bring
attention to these areas. Avoid
highlight on the cheekbones,
especially in the temple area; doing
so will only make the area more
pronounced.
Contour: Apply contour in the
hollows of the cheeks. Add contour
in a diagonal line to visually divide
the cheeks in half, thus reducing the
roundness of the cheeks.
Blush: Apply the desired cheek color
in between the highlight and contour.
SQUARE
For the square face
shape, you’re basically
doing the opposite of
the round face shape—
creating roundness instead of
diminishing it. This softens an
otherwise strong face shape.
Highlight: Apply highlight above the
cheekbones on a diagonal to soften
the strong lines of the face.
Contour: Apply contour to the
hollows of the cheeks, creating a thin
oval on the diagonal line. The slight
oval creates roundness in the lower
cheeks.
Blush: Apply blush in a circular
motion from the temple down to the
apples of the cheeks, almost like
placing a check mark on the cheeks.
Doing so further creates roundness in
the cheeks.
OBLONG
(RECTANGLE)
The longest of the face
shapes is the oblong
face shape. The goal
with this shape is to shorten the face
while also creating softness in the
cheek area similar to the square face
shape.
Highlight: Apply highlight from the
temple to under the eyes using a
diagonal line to soften the face shape.
Contour: Apply contour to the
diagonal line in the hollow part of the
cheeks. Doing so gives the illusion of
roundness.
Blush: Apply blush in a circular
manner close to the apples of the
cheeks to continue softening the
facial features.
HEART
The heart face shape is wider at the
top and narrow at the bottom. Your
goal is to reduce some
of the width at the top of
the face to balance the
narrow chin.
Highlight: Apply a
slight horizontal highlight above the
cheekbones to focus attention on this
area.
Contour: Apply contour just under
the cheeks and blend downward to
add a bit of fullness to the jawline.
Blush: Apply blush between the
highlight and contour on a slight
horizontal to give the illusion of less
space between the eyes.
DIAMOND
The strongest feature on
this face shape is the
cheekbones. Therefore,
you should make your
prominent cheeks appear they are
moving back into the face shape.
Highlight: Because the cheekbones
are already prominent, keep your
highlight under the eyes, sweeping it
slightly up and out.
Contour: Apply contour such as a
bronzer into the cheekbones to recede
the cheeks into the face shape.
Blush: Apply blush just below
contour to finish off your look.
More Secrets to Applying Blush!
• Most brushes that come with a blush are
useless. Throw them out and invest in a blush
brush that is slightly larger than the apples of
your cheeks.
• Cream blush can be used on the lips for a
complementary sheer and soft look.
• Powder blush should always be applied in one
direction to avoid streaking.
• To find out the actual position of the apple of
your cheek, look into the mirror, smile, and
then sweep a blush brush upward in an arc
from your cheekbone to your hairline.
• Some dark blush on the tip of your nose will
make it look shorter. Blend the color in gently.
• For a natural look, use cream blush with
cream foundation or powder blush with a
powder foundation.
CHAPTER 8
NOSE
The nose is very important in facial
symmetry because it’s the center of the
face. In art design, we use the term
emphasis, which refers to where we
want to draw a viewer’s attention.
Whatever the shape or size of your nose,
you don’t have to spend thousands of
dollars visiting the plastic surgeon if you
think it’s too distracting. Using the magic
of highlighting and contouring, you can alter your nose to the perfect proportion!
In this chapter, I address the different
nose shapes and the corrective
techniques you can use to make it
complement your face.
WHAT YOU
SHOULD KNOW
ABOUT YOUR
NOSE
The nose is divided into four
main areas: the bridge,
sidewalls, tip, and nostrils.
When it comes to creating the most
balanced look to your face, your nose
should be in proportion to the rest of
your face. What does that involve? The
following are guidelines to the ideal length and width of your nose.
Length of the nose: The center of the
eyebrows to the tip of the nose should be
equal to the distance from the hairline to
the brow and the tip of the nose to the
chin.
Width of the nose: The nostrils should
be directly below the tear ducts of the
eyes.
NOSE
HIGHLIGHT AND
CONTOUR
SHADES AND
TOOLS
You can correct a wide, thin,
or even crooked nose with
highlight and contour.
Let’s first go over what you need to
accomplish this.
Contour: Use a
powder or cream
color that’s a half
to full shade darker
than your natural
skin or foundation
color.
Highlight: Use a
powder or cream color that’s a half to
full shade lighter than your natural skin
or foundation color.
Angle brush or small shadow brush:
An angle brush will give a more precise
line down the bridge of your nose, while
a small shadow brush will create a
softer line down it. Additionally, you
can use the small shadow brush to blend
the contour.
Disposable makeup sponge or beauty
sponge: You can use a damp disposable
makeup sponge or the smallest point of a
damp beauty sponge to blend nose
highlight and contour.
HIGHLIGHTING
AND
CONTOURING
YOUR NOSE BY
NOSE SHAPE
Whether your nose is too long
for your face or you want to
“fix” a crooked nose, I can
help!
Highlighting and contouring using an
angle brush, a small eye shadow brush,
and/or a sponge can address various
nose shapes and concerns. Remember,
these corrections should be subtle,
especially for daytime makeup. The
following addresses how to slim down a
wide nose, widen a thin nose, shorten a
long nose, lengthen a short nose, and
straighten a crooked nose. Natural noses
don’t need any highlighting or
contouring.
WIDE
When you have a
wide nose, the goal is
to reduce the
appearance of the width of the nose.
This is achieved by reducing the
sidewalls and emphasizing the center of
the nose.
Highlight: Apply highlight straight down
the bridge at the width and length you
would like your nose to be. This
placement helps the nose appear thinner.
Contour: Apply a shadow or darker
foundation to the sides of the nose, using
the side of your tool to create a line
down each side of the highlight. Blend
contour down the sidewalls to complete
the look.
Highlighting Caution
Be careful not to make the highlight line on your
nose’s bridge too thin. You don’t want to your nose
to look like a toothpick!
THIN
If you have a thin
nose, you should use
your makeup to create
the appearance of
more width. Widening highlight past the
sidewalls achieves this look.
Highlight: Apply highlight just past the
bridge of the nose.
Contour: Apply shadow, darker
foundation, or bronzer to the nose, using
the side of the brush to create a line
down each side of the highlight. These
lines should run past the bridge into the
sidewalls. Drag contour down the
sidewalls to finish.
LONG
With long noses,
reducing the
appearance of the
length is the primary
goal. This is achieved by stopping
highlight at the desired length of the
nose.
Highlight: Starting at the top of the
bridge, pull highlight down the bridge of
the nose. Do not bring any highlight into
the tip of the nose, as doing so will
visually stop the eye from traveling
downward.
Contour: Apply contour just under the
tip of the nose, being careful not to blend
it into the tip too much. This avoids
making your nose look dirty from
contour.
SHORT
For a short nose, it’s
important to lengthen
the appearance of it.
In this case, highlight
is pulled to the tip of the nose and
contour extends into the nostrils.
Highlight: Starting at the top of the
bridge, drag highlight to the tip of the
nose to visually create length.
Contour: Apply contour to the sides of
the nose. Bring contour all the way down
the nose to the nose’s tip (following the
highlight) to finish.
CROOKED
Even if your nose is
crooked, highlight
and contour can “fix”
it, giving the
appearance of a
straight nose.
Highlight: Imagine where the line of a
straight nose should be on your crooked
nose. Drag highlight straight down to the
tip of the nose following this imaginary
line. It’s okay if you overlap the
sidewalls; highlight corrects the
shadows that define a crooked nose.
Contour: Using your applied highlight
line as a guide, apply contour on either
side of this new line. Blend contour
down the sidewalls to finish.
Tips for Different Nose Concerns
• Flat nose: Apply highlight down the center of the nose, avoiding the sides. Smooth and blend
down the center.
• Broad nose: To slim this down, sweep a
foundation one shade darker than your natural
skin tone along the sides of the nose with a
small, firm makeup brush. Start just below the
inner corners of the eyebrows and end at the
sides of the nostrils. Stroke a lighter shade of
foundation down the bridge of the nose. Blend
well.
• Narrow nose: Sweep concealer that’s slightly darker than your natural skin tone down the
center of the nose. Apply a lighter shade on
the sides of the nose and nostrils.
CHAPTER 9
SETTING
POWDER
After applying concealer and foundation
and contouring your face, cheeks, and
nose, it’s time to apply setting powder.
Setting powder is used to reduce sweat
on your face, set cream foundation, and
blend your highlight and contour—in
other words, it “sets” your face makeup.
In this chapter, I take you through the types of setting powder available, what
you can use to put it on, and the best way
to apply it.
TYPES
OF
SETTING
POWDER
There are several types of
setting powders that work well
on their own on normal to oily
skin types, with the exception
of mineral powder, which
works well for all skin types.
The following are the basic types
available, as well as their best features.
Pressed powder: This comes in a
compact and is great for absorbing oily
skin, reducing shine, and setting your
foundation.
Loose powder: This is similar to
pressed powder, but it’s more finely
milled. This means you can layer the
loose powder for better coverage. Loose
powder typically comes in a shaker
container; holes in the container’s top assist in controlling the amount of
product you are using and help to contain
spillage.
Translucent powder: This is a setting
powder that does not contain pigment, so
you can set your foundation without
competing with the foundation’s base
color. Translucent powder works on any
skin color.
Tinted setting powder: This is tinted in
shades that complement various skin
colors, adding a little color when you
are not using a foundation. In addition, it
is great in helping blend corrective
makeup. I personally use tinted setting
powder on my clients to blend out the highlights and contouring I create in a
makeup application.
Mineral powder: This powder absorbs
excess oil and reduces shine. Because
mineral makeup is tinted and creates a
glowing look, I often use it as a setting
powder. The trick is to use a foundation
brush versus a kabuki brush. Foundation
brushes have fewer bristles, which leave
less powder on the skin than a kabuki
brush.
Avoiding Pressed Powder Breakage
Having trouble with your pressed powder staying
together? Place a cotton ball or round cotton pad in
your powder compact to keep your pressed powder from breaking in your purse or cosmetic bag.
POWDER
APPLICATION
TOOLS
Setting powder can be applied with a
powder puff, a powder brush, or even a
kabuki brush. It all depends on how
heavily you want the powder to go on
and how you’d like to blend.
Powder puff: A powder puff typically
comes with pressed or loose powder.
It’s made of a soft material that’s used to
press powder into the skin. You can also
use the powder puff to blend contours
and highlights into the skin after you put on your setting powder. Because reusing
a powder puff will cause oil and debris
to move from the face to the compact,
you might consider investing in a
powder puff you can launder.
Powder brush: The largest of the
brushes, a powder brush has longer hairs
to dust the setting powder onto your skin.
It is easier to clean than a powder puff
and can be used with all setting powder
products. However, it is especially
effective with loose powder because the
longer and less dense brush offers a
lighter application.
Kabuki brush: Because of its short,
dense hairs, you have the option of using
this brush to blend your makeup with the
setting powder.
APPLYING
SETTING
POWDER
Setting powder has many
functions, such as setting
makeup so it doesn’t come off
and blending your highlight
and contour into your skin.
It is not about providing more coverage
like a foundation or concealer; the
setting powder should simply give your
face a softer look and help the
foundation and concealer to stay on
longer.
BASIC APPLICATION
The following is a basic application for
setting powder, which mirrors
foundation application. Use a light hand
so as to not remove the foundation and
concealer.
1. Tap any excess powder off of the
powder brush.
2. Apply the setting powder starting at
the forehead and brushing back and
forth horizontally.
3. Move your
brush down the
side of the
nose and
horizontally
under the eyes.
4. Brush your
brush
horizontally over the cheek down to
the chin. Repeat on the opposite
side.
BLENDING YOUR
HIGHLIGHT AND
CONTOUR
You have the option of using tinted or
translucent setting powder to blend your
highlight and contour so they don’t sit on
top of your foundation and concealer.
Unlike the basic application, you are
pressing rather than brushing the powder
into the skin to adequately blend in the
highlight and contour.
Using a Hydrating Mist
If you want your makeup to last longer, spray a
hydrating mist after you apply your setting powder.
The water more fully sets the powder into your
skin.
1. Press your powder puff or kabuki
brush into the setting powder.
2. Press your powder into the skin; do
not brush back and forth. You are
essentially pushing the highlight and
contour color into the foundation,
otherwise known as blending your
makeup.
CHAPTER 10
EYEBROWS
If the eyes are the windows to the soul,
the eyebrows are the valance to those
windows! You can do a beautiful eye
shadow application; however, the look
will fall short if your eyebrows are not
shaped and shaded correctly. This makes
it critical to have your eyebrows looking
their best.
This chapter focuses on eyebrows for your face shape, brow shaping
techniques, and how to fill in your
brows.
THE PERFECT
EYEBROW
Before I get into grooming
and shaping your eyebrows,
let’s talk about where your
eyebrow should start, angle,
and end.
Using a makeup brush, we’re going to
identify these three points of the perfect
eyebrow.
1. Place your makeup brush vertical
with the side of your nose. This is
where your eyebrow should begin.
2. Pivot your brush off your nose until
it crosses your pupil. This will be
the highest point of your arch. Your
brow should arch on an angle to the
right or left of your pupil—not
above it!
3. Place your makeup brush on an
angle from your nose to the outside
corner of your eye. This is where
your brow should end.
Shaping Overtweezed Brows
Have you overtweezed your eyebrows to the point
you can no longer see their shape? I suggest
drawing your “future” eyebrow over your current
brow using an eye pencil or an eye shadow with an
angle brush. You can even take a picture if you
need to remember the shape. Once that’s done,
tweeze around the drawn eyebrow. It may take
weeks to see the desired brow shape, but it’s worth
the wait!
EYEBROW
TYPES
You may not realize it, but the
shape of your eyebrows can be
a key piece of a successful
makeup.
There are five different eyebrow shapes
you can have or sculpt—round, angled,
soft angled, curved, and flat.
ROUND
A round
eyebrow
is an
even
curve
without
points.
ANGLED
An
angled
eyebrow
comes to
a
stronger
peak
before
sloping
downward.
It’s a
stronger
eyebrow
than the
traditional
round
shape.
SOFT
ANGLED
A soft-
angled
eyebrow
is
similar
to an
angled
one.
However,
instead
of
coming
to a
strong
point, it
curves
slightly
at its
peak.
CURVED
A curved
eyebrow
has two
curves—
a smaller
upside-
down U,
followed
by a
larger
curve
over the
brow
bone.
FLAT
A flat
eyebrow
does not
have a
strong
peak.
The
brow is
more
horizontal,
with a
subtle
slope at
the end.
THE BEST
EYEBROWS FOR
EACH FACE
SHAPE
My favorite moment as a
makeup artist is reshaping my
clients’ brows.
It frames their eye makeup, balances
their face shape, and adds that perfect
pop of drama. I’d like to show you how
to attain your perfect face shape with a
suitable eyebrow shape.
OVAL
While any eyebrow shape
can work, soft-angled
brows are the most
attractive on this versatile
face shape. Soft-angled
brows complement the natural curve
of an oval face.
OBLONG (RECTANGLE)
Flat brows work best on the oblong
face shape. This is because a long
face needs more balance
than any other shape, which
thick, straight brows like
the flat shape can provide.
These brows are also good
at not accentuating the
length of it, unlike arched brows.
HEART
People with heart-shaped
faces should ideally have
rounded or curved brows.
These brows help balance
the pointy chin. Stay away
from flat brows, which tend to
overaccentuate the chin instead.
SQUARE
Curved or angled brows
are recommended for a
square-shaped face, which
needs slimming for the four
corners. Both brow types
soften and balance the symmetry of
this face shape. Stay away from an
overly arched brow shape, as it can
create an exaggerated jawline.
ROUND
Round faces look good
with angled or soft-angled
brows. Either brow can
add length and strength to
the face shape. Having the
arch of the brows taper to a sharp
point makes the cheekbones appear
higher and the jawline look more
distinct, for an overall elongating
effect.
DIAMOND
A diamond face shape requires
brows that balance the strong
cheekbones. Therefore,
anyone with this face shape
should go with round,
curved, or angled brows to
narrow it.
BROW SHAPING
The perfect brow shape does
wonders for your face.
Now that you know what brow works
best with your features, it’s time to look
at how to shape your brows. While
you’re free to seek the help of a
professional for this, there are a couple
quick-and-easy ways you can shape your
brows from the comfort of your own
home: tweezing and waxing.
Tweezing: Using
tweezers, a
slender metal tool with a pointed or flat
end, you pluck one hair at a time until you create the shape you desire. Be
careful not to overpluck your eyebrows,
or you’ll end up having to shade them in.
Waxing: This requires a pot of heated
wax and a wooden spatula. The spatula
is dipped into heated wax, and then the
wax is applied to the area on the brow
where you’d like to remove hair. After a
few moments, you pull it off in the
direction of the hair growth. There are
two kinds of wax used in this technique:
soft and hard wax.
Soft wax is the consistency of honey.
When heated, it can be applied with a
wooden spatula
and removed
with a cloth
strip. It removes
the hair quickly.
While redness
often follows a
soft wax, it
should go away
within an hour.
You can apply aloe afterward to reduce
any redness and irritation.
Hard wax is a great option for those
with sensitive skin or on acne
medication, which can make the skin thin
and easily irritated. This technique does
not require a cloth for removal. The wax
dries, holding the hair in the product.
You then simply pull the hard wax off,
removing the hairs with it.
Threading
Originating from India, threading is a fast and
inexpensive brow-shaping technique that has
become very popular internationally. In threading, a thin cotton thread is doubled, twisted, and then
rolled across areas where the hair needs to be
removed. This motion pulls the hair out at the
follicle, one hair at a time.
Waxing at Home
Not getting the eyebrow waxing results you want?
Follow these steps using the indicated products
(which you can find at beauty supply stores or
online), and you’ll get perfectly waxed eyebrows
every time!
Small cosmetic scissors
Prewax cleanser
Baby powder
Wax applicator (such as a wooden spatula)
Heated soft wax
Pellon or muslin cloth strips
Baby oil or wax remover
Aloe vera
1. Before waxing, pull your hair back from your
face and shape your eyebrows to your desired
shape. If necessary, trim your eyebrows with
small cosmetic scissors.
2. Apply prewax cleanser to your eyebrows; this
will help you avoid any infection.
3. Dab baby powder on your eyebrows. This acts as a barrier between the wax and your
skin.
4. Using your eyebrow wax applicator, apply
wax in the direction your eyebrows grow,
making sure all the eyebrows you want to
remove have wax. Remember, only apply it to
the hairs you want to remove.
5. Cover your eyebrow with pellon or muslin
cloth strip in the direction of your eyebrow
growth; a part of the strip should be free of
hair for removal. Firmly press the strip in the
direction your eyebrow grows several times to
ensure it has been attached to the hairs, and let
it cool slightly.
6. Grasp the part of the cloth strip extended
beyond the eyebrow and, holding your
eyebrow skin taut with your other hand,
remove the strip with one quick pull in the
opposite direction of the hair growth ( not upward). If any hairs are remaining, put the
strip back on and pull it off again.
7. Clean any remaining wax off your skin using
baby oil or a wax remover.
8. Finish by applying aloe vera to reduce
redness.
FILLING IN
BROWS
Think of this step as creating
a shadow behind the brows.
To do this, use a shade lighter than the
brow color and fill in. If your eyebrow
is very blonde, choose a color a shade
or two darker than your brow. While
many companies have developed
products for shading your eyebrows, it’s
really quite simple to do yourself. Let’s
take a look.
TOOLS FOR FILLING IN
The following are tools you can use
when shaping your brows. Pencils are a
great tool when you need to lengthen or
fill in a weak brow, while eye shadows
are used to add more color and fullness
to a brow. You can use each separately
or together, depending on your need.
Eyebrow pencil: You can use the point
of an eyebrow pencil to lightly draw in
hairs for a natural look, or shade in the
brows for a more dramatic look. There
are five shades typically used to fill;
each is matched to a particular hair
color:
Taupe: Blonde and red hair
Light brown: Dark
blonde and light
brown hair
Medium brown: Light to medium
brown hair
Dark brown: Medium to dark brown
hair
Black: Black hair and dark skin
Eye shadow: You can use a matte eye
shadow with an angle brush to fill in and
shape your brows. Again, I suggest you
use the shade that corresponds with your
hair color:
Taupe: Blonde hair
Light brown: Light to
medium brown hair
Dark brown: Dark
brown hair
Black: Black hair
BASIC BROW FILLING
Ultimately, your goal is to give the
illusion of a fuller natural brow. The
following walks you step by step through
how to do this. Refer back to “The
Perfect Eyebrow” if necessary for a
refresher on the three points of the brow.
1. Point 1 should be
the darkest and
fullest area of the
eyebrow. Use the tip
of your pencil and
begin by drawing a
line vertical to the
nose.
2. Lightly draw the bottom line of the
brow from the starting point, over
the arch, and down to point 3.
3. Lightly create a parallel line at the
top of the brow you are creating.
4. Use a lighter touch as you move
from point 2 to point 3 to give a
softer finish to the brow. The brow
should become thinner as you get to
point 3.
5. Lightly fill in between the two lines.
Remember, the brow should be
darker between points 1 and 2 and
begin to become lighter as you move
toward point 3.
6. If you’d like, you can use a
disposable mascara wand to brush
over the eyebrow you created. The
mascara wand softens the lines and
blends them into your natural
eyebrows.
Creating an Eyelift
For an instant eyelift, apply soft white eye shadow
above your eyebrow and soft
pink eye shadow in below the
arch of your eyebrow. This will
define and elevate it.
Creating a Brow Stencil
To simplify fill in your eyebrows, you can create a
brow stencil.
Vellum paper
Craft razor
Cutting mat
Number-2 pencil
Hold the vellum paper to your eyebrow and lightly
trace your eyebrow, using the eyebrow shape as a
guide.
Choose the eyebrow
shape you would like to
create: round, angled,
soft angled, curved, or
flat. Sketch the shape
over the brow you
traced on the vellum
paper. Erase the parts of
the old brow you don’t
want and then, using the
craft razor, cut the
remaining brow shape
out of the vellum. Use the point of your craft razor to cut out the inside of the stencil.
If you would like to have a stencil for each brow,
turn the stencil upside down and trace a mirror
image of the brow. Using the craft razor, cut out
the second brow stencil. Label one stencil R (right) and the other L (left).
Place the stencil over your eyebrow and color it in
with the appropriate eyebrow pencil or matte eye shadow. If you are using only one stencil, turn the
stencil over and place it on the opposite brow;
otherwise, use the second stencil.
CHAPTER 11
EYE SHADOW
With entire stores designated just to eye
shadow options, choosing the right
texture, hue, and brand can seem
incredibly intimidating. Don’t allow the
vast variety to scare you though—
embrace it!
In this chapter, I help you choose the
appropriate eye shadow products and
color. I also give you some application tips so you can make your eyes look
their most dazzling.
TYPES OF
EYE
SHADOWS
There are thousands of eye
shadow pigments (or colors).
These shadows come in the following
forms: pressed powder, loose powder,
cream, and mineral.
Pressed powder: Eye shadow in
pressed form comes in a compact, which
makes it easy to carry. You can apply
pressed powder with a
brush, a sponge
applicator, or an
applicator supplied
with the shadow.
Loose powder: Eye
shadow in loose form comes in a shaker.
This type of eye shadow is applied with
brush. For a bolder eye look, use loose
powder for a stronger application of
pigment.
Cream: This comes in a variety of
colors and provides more coverage due
to its thicker consistency. However,
because it is a cream, it can easily
crease; therefore, I don’t recommend
cream shadow for mature eyes.
Mineral: This eye shadow is great
alternative to the other shadow types. It
comes in beautiful colors and is great for
sensitive skin, as it doesn’t irritate.
Setting Your Eye Shadow
For longer wear, use cream shadow as a primer for
a pressed or loose eye shadow in the same color.
You can then apply the powder shadow to set the cream.
EYE SHADOW
FINISHES
Another difference between
eye shadows is the type of
finish they have: sheer, matte,
shimmer, metallic, or glitter.
Sheer: These eye shadows have a light
pigment. They provide a hint of color
and are great to use for everyday natural
looks.
Matte: Shadows that do not have a
shine or reflection of light are referred
to as having a matte finish. Matte
shadows are often beautiful, silky colors
that are used for natural looks. They are
great for mature eyes, since they will not
highlight the fine lines associated with
aging.
Shimmer: These types of eye shadow
contain light-reflecting materials that
provide their shimmer finish, giving
depth and interest to the colors. In
addition, you can easily blend shades in
this finish to create a striking look.
Metallic: These eye shadows are
similar to a shimmer shadow in terms of
their finish. They typically come in
shades the color of metal (gold, silver,
copper, and black). Metallic finishes create a dramatic evening look and are
great on darker skin.
Glitter: Cosmetic glitter is ground a bit
finer than craft glitter and gives a
sparkle to eye shadows. Glitter finish
creates a theatrical eye effect and is
typically worn by teenage girls. Because
glitter is loose and can shed easily, it
should be the last thing you apply when
doing your makeup.
CHOOSING AN
EYE SHADOW
COLOR
You may be wondering, “How
do I choose a color that looks
best on me?”
Any good makeup artist will tell you it’s
important to first have an understanding
of the color wheel. So before you pick
out eye shadow, let’s review the color
wheel and the relationship between
primary, secondary, and tertiary colors.
All colors derive from the primary colors: red, yellow, and blue. Primary
colors cannot be mixed or formed by
another color. Secondary colors are a
combination of two primary colors,
which result in orange, green, and violet,
depending on the colors combined.
Tertiary colors are a combination of a
primary and a secondary color. For
example, red-orange, red-violet, yellow-
orange, yellow-green, blue-violet, and
blue-green are tertiary colors.
All colors have complementary colors,
which are colors that are opposite each
other on the color wheel. When
combined in the right proportions, these
pairs will create
white or black.
Here are some
common
examples:
• Red is
complementary to the color green.
• Blue is complementary to the color
orange.
• Yellow is complementary to the
color violet.
Now that you understand the color
wheel, a good rule of thumb to follow is
to use your eye color to help indicate the
appropriate color choice. Here are the
eye shadow shades I recommend based
on eye color.
Blue eyes: The
complementary color to
blue is orange.
Therefore, look for
colors that have shades of orange, such
as gold, copper, apricot, and peach.
Green eyes: The
complementary color to
green is red. So look for
eye shadow in shades of
red, such as plum and wine.
Brown eyes: Brown is a neutral color,
so any eye shadow color
will work with it.
Typically, blue and
purple are standout
colors for brown eyes.
Hazel eyes: Women
with hazel eyes are able
to enjoy a wide spectrum
of shadow shades due to
the flecked hues they possess. This eye
color can handle many shades of eye
makeup. However, blue is one
exception; this color can make the eyes
look grayish.
Salvaging Your Eye Shadow
Did you drop your eye shadow? No problem! Here are a couple ways you can salvage it:
• If you want to still use it as shadow, add a few
drops of rubbing alcohol to the broken shadow.
You can then pat it back together with a
quarter, thus reshaping and remixing the
shadow.
• For something different, take the eye shadow
and mix it with a clear nail polish. You have
now created some great nail polish!
APPLYING EYE
SHADOW 101
Once you’ve chosen the
appropriate colors for your
skin tone, eye color, and eye
shadow design, it’s time to
apply them.
Basic shadow placement begins with
putting on three eye shadow colors:
light, medium, and dark. You then
proceed to blend the eye shadow colors
into one another; this softens the lines
between colors and any harsh lines. For
the best outcome, the entire lid should be
covered in makeup. Leaving any part of
the lid exposed can weaken the overall
look.
1. Apply the
medium eye
shadow color
on your eyelid.
This color is
typically the
predominant
color (for
example, gold)
and is the
statement color in the palette.
2. Apply the dark eye shadow color in the crease of your eye; these are
usually made up of shades of brown
or black. This is a form of
contouring that creates definition for
the eye.
3. Apply the light eye shadow color
from the crease to just under the
eyebrow and from the brow bone
into the tear duct. This is a white,
ivory, or cream color used to
highlight the eye.
4. Using your eye shadow brush, blend
the darkest color just into the
highlight color, moving back and
forth like a windshield wiper.
Repeat the blending into the medium
eye shadow color. Remember to
only blend where a color meets a
color; pulling a color completely
into another will make the
application appear sloppy and
muddy.
Making Colors Pop
Want to make colored eye shadows pop? First, apply a white eye cream to the eyelid, and then dab
your favorite eye shadow color on top. The white
eye cream will intensify the colored eye shadow.
CHAPTER 12
EYELINER
When I was little, I loved to outline my
coloring book pictures in black because
the effect made them look more
polished. The same effect happens when
you use eyeliner on your eyes. Eyeliner
makes the eyes pop, creates a polished
look, and grounds the makeup
application. Of course, eyeliner is a
privilege and not a right; it’s about
creating a dramatic outline without
looking like you are stuck in the ’80s.
In this chapter, I give you tips on
eyeliner, from basic application to
creating more dramatic looks.
TYPES OF
EYELINER
Originally introduced by the
Egyptians and gaining
popularity in the 1920s,
eyeliner has been used as a
tool to accentuate the eyes.
While the first eyeliner was made from
kohl (lead sulfite), manufacturers have
since created eyeliner with much safer
ingredients. You can find eyeliner in
pencil, liquid, gel pot, and eye shadow
form.
Pencil: Eyeliner pencils come in shades
varying from white to black, are easy to
apply, and are very affordable. You can
find pencils in thin and jumbo sizes,
depending on how thick you want the
line to be. Typically, pencils and most
gel pencils will require the use of a
cosmetic pencil sharpener. Eyeliner
pencils are particularly great to use for
smoky eye applications because of the
ease with which you can smudge them.
Liquid: This eyeliner goes on wet to dry
and provides a stronger pigment of color
than pencil. It also comes with a pen tip,
which makes application much easier.
Liquid liner requires a steady hand, but it’s worth the effort when it comes to a
clean look. Because liquid liner needs a
moment to dry, I suggest keeping your
eye closed for a few seconds; otherwise,
smudging may occur.
Gel pot: Gel eyeliner comes in a small
pot and is applied with an angle brush.
This eyeliner has a stronger pigment like
liquid eyeliner; however, you can
smudge the product into place before it
sets.
Eye shadow: You can also use eye
shadow as a liner. In fact, I encourage
you to use a matte eye shadow with a
makeup brush prior to using a pencil or
pen. If you are making a cat eye, you can
lay down the eye shadow as a guide for
your liner. Additionally, eye shadow as
a liner is great for oily skin because it
absorbs the oil, allowing the shadow to
stay on the lid.
BASIC EYELINER
APPLICATION
The following are the basic
steps for applying eyeliner.
Remember, you should begin your
eyeliner application only after you have
completed applying your eye shadow.
1. Place your index finger at the crease
of your eye and gently lift the eyelid.
This is especially important if you
have a heavy-fold eyelid or mature
skin that has lost some of its
elasticity.
2. Beginning at the last eyelash located closest to your tear duct, start
drawing a line following the natural
lash line. This may take a few
strokes of the liner.
3. Stop at the end of your outer eye,
being careful not to go past the
eyelashes.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 on the lower
lashline. For a natural look, start at
the center of the eye and work to the
outside corner. Blend at the center to
create a soft line.
GOING BEYOND
BASIC:
EYELINER BY
ERA
Looking for something beyond
a basic line?
Different eras have provided looks that
are fun and easy to copy. The following
go through popular eyeliner in several
decades, as well as the best eyeliner
products to achieve them.
1920S
The 1920s was the time period that
launched the smoky eye look of
eyeliner with a coal effect. To create
the 1920s smoky eye, take your
eyeliner pencil or gel pot and follow
the natural curve of the lash line,
tracing all around the eye. Finally,
smudge outside of the lower lash
line; this creates a softer (smoky)
effect with the liner.
1940S
The 1940s emphasized liner on top of
the lid. To create this look, take your
eyeliner pencil or liquid liner along
the top lash line, following the curve
of the eye with a thick line. On the
bottom lash line, use an eye shadow
or pencil to create a thin line,
stopping before your tear duct.
1950S AND 1960S
The cat eye trend began in the 1950s
and became overexaggerated in the
1960s as outrageous fashion styles
exploded. To create the bold eye,
take a liquid or gel eyeliner and
create a thick black line on the top
lash line. When you approach the
outer edge, swoop the liner upward.
1970S
In the 1970s, eyeliner switched to a
more natural look composed of
browns and whites. To create this
look, use a brown eyeliner and
follow the natural curve of your lash
line. Apply to the top only.
1980S
The style dictates you could use any-
color eyeliner to complete your look,
though black will be the most
dramatic. To create this look, take
any liner type and line completely
around the entire eye and into the
water line—in fact, the more severe
and dramatic the eyeliner, the better.
Polishing Your Eye Look
To give your makeup application a more polished
look, take the primary eye shadow color you used
on your eyelid and apply the same color along your
bottom lash line using an angle brush. For example,
if you used a turquoise eye shadow, use the same
color in the tear duct area to marry the look
together.
CHAPTER 13
FULL EYE
As is the case with face shapes,
everyone is born with different eye
shapes. The mistake made in eye makeup
application is not understanding the
shape of the eyes, especially if you see
an application or technique applied to an
eye different from your own. Therefore,
now that I’ve gone through eye shadow
and eye makeup, I’d like to show you
how to bring those together to create the perfect look for your eye shape.
In this chapter, I give you highlighting
and contouring techniques for different
eye shapes using eye shadow and/or
eyeliner.
PARTS OF THE
EYE AND THEIR
ROLE IN
MAKEUP
With full eye makeup, the
entire eye must be considered.
Each part should be
addressed during a makeup
application.
• Brow bone: Found directly under
the eyebrow, the
highlight color is
applied in this
section.
• Crease: Found at the top of the lid
and the beginning of the brow bone,
it is the section where the skin rolls
into the eye socket. Depending on
the brow bone, the crease can be
deep set to nonexistent.
• Eyelid: The half-moon-shaped
section of skin between the upper
lash line and the crease, this is the
primary space for eye shadow.
• Upper lash line: Found along the edge of the lid closest to the eye,
this is where eyeliner, mascara, and
false eyelashes are used.
• Tear duct: Also known as the inner
eye, this is found at the corner of
the eye closest to the nose. Liner
and shadow can be placed in this
section.
• Lower lash line: Found at the
bottom of the eye, you use eyeliner
and mascara in this section.
CORRECTING
YOUR EYE
SHAPE WITH
FULL EYE
MAKEUP
Now that you know the parts of the eye,
it’s time go over the 10 eye shapes—
almond, wide set, close set, deep set,
prominent, small, monolid, hooded,
upturned, and downturned eye shapes—
and how to correct them, if necessary, to
create the perfect eye look.
ALMOND
(AVERAGE)
EYES
This is the shape you want to
replicate. The almond eye shape is
the most balanced in width and height
and has equal distance from the upper
lash line to the crease and crease to
the brow bone. If you have this eye
shape, you will find it easy to create
most eye makeup looks, no matter the
technique.
WIDE-SET
EYES
Wide-set eyes are
set more than an
eye width apart. The goal of your
eye makeup application should be
to bring the eyes in toward the
nose. Apply darker eye shadow
colors in the corners of the eyes.
This technique draws the eyes in
toward the nose.
Eye shadow
colors and
placement can
assist in bringing
wide-set eyes inward. Use light eye
shadow colors on the middle to
outside eyes and darker eye shadow
colors closer to the nose to draw
focus inward. If you choose to wear
dark eye shadows, do not apply past
the end of the eyebrow; this
accentuates the wideness of the eyes.
CLOSE-SET
EYES
Close-set eyes are
set less than an eye width apart.
Therefore, you want to use your eye
makeup to create space between the
eyes.
The trick is to
create more space
between the
bridge of the nose and the corners of
the eyes. This is achieved by placing
a light color, such as white, in the
inside corners of the eyes.
DEEP-SET
EYES
Deep-set eyes
have protruding eye sockets. Because
the eyes are set back farther into the
eye socket, they create shadows. You
want to reduce the shadows the eye
sockets cast onto the eyelids.
Apply a light eye
shadow on the
eyelid, blending it
into the eye
socket, to lessen the shadows. To
finish the application, apply a
contour color in the creases and
blend up and over the brow bones.
PROMINENT EYES
Prominent eye are large, round eyes
where more of the white of the eyes
can be seen. Your goal is to give the
illusion the eyes are smaller than they
seem.
Bring your darker
eye shadows
closer to the top
lash lines. Follow up with a heavy,
dark eyeliner on the top lash lines.
Finish the application by adding your
dark eyeliner into the water lines (the
pink area behind your lower lashes)
to give the illusion of smaller eyes.
SMALL
EYES
Small eyes have
little space between the lash lines,
with very little of the whites of the
eyes showing. Therefore, it’s
important to make the eyes look
bigger and more pronounced.
Apply a white
pencil along the
lower lash lines.
Apply eyeliner
just below the white eyeliner. This
technique gives the illusion of a
larger eye shape.
MONOLID
EYES
Monolid eyes
have little to no crease in the eyelids
and no brow bone. There is a fairly
flat surface between the eyelid and
the eyebrow. Monolid eyes provide a
larger surface area to play with.
Because there is an absence of a
crease in the eyelids, you need to
create that.
Apply the contour
(darkest) shadow
in a half-moon
shape where you imagine a crease to
be on each eye. Blend your medium
shadow on the creases. Finally, apply
the highlight eye shadow.
HOODED
EYES
Hooded eyes have heavy folds of
skin that hang over the eye sockets,
which are more prominent in mature
skin. The trick is to create a contour
on the lids.
Sweep a matte
contour color
closest to the lash
lines. Next, layer
your medium eye shadow color
above the contour, and blend
highlight (light eye shadow) from the
corner of the eyes upward into the
brow bones. This reduces the weight
in the eyelids.
Last, apply eyeliner into the upper
lash lines. Remember, the lids are
covering a lot of the eyes. Therefore,
be careful not to make the liner too
thick, as it will get lost in the folds.
UPTURNED
EYES
Upturned eyes
angle upward at the outer corners of
the eyes. For example, most Disney
princesses are drawn with upturned
eyes! To minimize the amount of
angle, imagine the eyelids are
divided in half.
Apply a medium
shadow from the
center and blend
downward toward
the tear ducts. Apply the contour
(darkest) color from the middle of the
eyes toward the outer corners. Finish
by blending the color in a “U” shape
(not following the upward slope).
This angles the eyes downward,
creating the illusion that the eyes
aren’t so upturned.
DOWNTURNED EYES
Downturned eyes angle downward at
the eyes’ outer corners. To correct
this, you want to give the eyes a lift.
Apply a medium
shadow from the
tear ducts to just
past the middle of the eyes. Apply a
contour color just past the middle of
the eyes, sweeping it upward at the
outer corners. This creates the lift
you need.
CHAPTER 14
EYELASHES
While eyelashes serve the important
purpose of protecting your eyes from
debris, I consider them ornamentation.
They surround your eye like the fringe on
a pillow; in the same way, they can
complement your makeup application.
This chapter focuses on techniques to get
the long, lush lashes you crave, including
using mascara, curling wands, and false eyelashes.
TYPES OF
MASCARA
Mascara is a cosmetic
formulated with pigments,
waxes, oils, and preservatives
to darken and thicken the
eyelashes.
Just like the hair on your head, eyelashes
can be thin, brittle, and unruly.
Therefore, different types of mascara
have been designed to address these
common issues.
Waterproof mascara: This type is formulated with mineral oils and waxes
that enable it to stay on your eyelashes
through tears, sweat, and water.
Volumizing mascara: The formula for
this mascara contains silicone polymers
and thickening agents, which give the
illusion of thicker eyelashes.
Smudge-proof mascara: Formulated
with a wax-oil base, this mascara is
great for people who are very active and
don’t want to retouch their mascara
during the day.
Curling mascara: This type is a bit
thicker than regular mascara. It comes
with a wand designed to curl the lashes.
Lengthening mascara: This mascara
contains tiny synthetic fibers that cling to
one another and to the lash, giving the
appearance of longer lashes.
Lash-defining mascara: This provides
a combination of volumizing,
lengthening, and color to your eyelashes.
Typically waterproof, it’s considered an
all-in-one mascara.
Primer mascara: This type is good if
you wear makeup every day. It coats the
lashes, protecting them from damage
from daily mascara use. Primer also
provides moisture to dry lashes and acts
as a coat so your mascara goes on
evenly.
Defining Your Lashes
Use an eyeliner pen to highlight your bottom
eyelashes. While it takes some time, you can define
each lash individually, making them stand out.
MASCARA
COLORS
You can find
mascara in a
variety of colors,
depending on your
needs.
Black: Black mascara is
great for a dramatic and
bold look, and for use on darker skin
tones.
Brown: Brown mascara is a bit softer
than black mascara and works for
natural daytime looks. It’s a nice color
choice for fair-complected skin types.
Fashion colors: This refers to colors
beyond the typical black and brown,
such as blue, yellow, and green.
Fashion-color mascara helps enhance a
dramatic, youthful look.
Clear: If you already have thick, full
eyelashes and just want definition, try a
clear mascara. It simply provides shine
and separation for your lashes.
Mascara Application Tips
Do you ever put on your mascara to perfection,
only to blink and have it stain and smudge? To
avoid smudges on the skin beneath your lashes, lay
a plastic spoon under your bottom lashes, and then
apply your mascara. If you’re looking to keep your
upper lashes and eye makeup pristine, place an
index card behind your top lashes when applying
mascara.
MASCARA
WANDS
You might not realize it, but
the proper mascara wand is
just as important as the
mascara itself.
The following are the different types of
mascara wands you can find, as well as
what specific lash issues they address.
Short wand: A mascara wand with short
bristles is great for short eyelashes.
Long wand: This type of wand has
evenly spaced bristles that are ideal for lengthening your lashes.
Round wand: A round wand with dense
bristles can help you achieve volume in
your lashes.
Spherical brush wand: This type of
wand, with bristles on a sphere, is
designed for individual eyelash
application. While using this is more
time consuming, you’ll end up with
well-defined lashes.
Curved wand: This wand has evenly
spaced bristles that lift and curl your
eyelashes.
Cleaning Off Excess Mascara
Do you always have too much product on your
mascara wand? Wipe a little off on a tissue before
applying. Pay close attention to the end of the
wand, where product tends to gather and clump.
Recycling Your Wands
Looking to save some money? Keep your
expensive and favorite wands from discarded
mascaras, clean them off, and use them in less-
expensive mascaras for better application.
BASIC MASCARA
APPLICATION
Applying mascara does not
have to be difficult.
The basic rule of thumb is to apply to
your top lashes only, unless you want
your eyes to look more open. The
following walks you through how to get
the best mascara coverage for your
lashes.
1. Place the mascara wand deep into
the base of the lashes, wiggling it in
left to right. You want to have good
coverage near the roots, as it is
mascara in that area—not the tips—
that gives the illusion of length.
2. Pull the wand up and through the
lashes, wiggling as you go. This
wiggling helps separate the lashes.
3. Close your eye and place the
mascara wand on top of the lashes at
the base. Pull the wand through to
remove any clumps.
Declumping Your Mascara
Are you trying to declump your mascara? Do not
pump the wand into the mascara. This incorporates
air into the product and dries it out. Instead, swirl the wand in the tube. If the mascara begins to get
clumpy and swirling doesn’t help, add a few eye
drops to it. This will refresh the mascara.
OTHER EYELASH
TOOLS AND
TECHNIQUES
A couple coats of mascara
isn’t the only thing that can
improve the look of your
lashes.
The following tools and techniques help
you achieve beautiful eyelashes beyond
the mascara tube.
EYELASH CURLER
An eyelash curler is a tool used to curl
your upper eyelashes prior to applying
mascara or false eyelashes. It’s normally
made out of metal and has rubber strips
on the curlers where the lashes are
gripped. While using it is a fairly simple
process, the following step-by-step
shows you how to get the best results
from your eyelash curler.
1. Place the
eyelash curler
close to your
lash line.
2. Press the
eyelash curler
open and
closed as you move the eyelash
curler away from your eye.
3. Finish by pumping the eyelash curler
upward. This encourages the lashes
to curl away from your eyeball,
giving your eyes a lift.
Longer-Lasting Curled Lashes
If you’re looking for longer-lasting curled lashes, try heating your eyelash curler with a blow dryer for
five seconds before use! The heat will curl your
lashes just like a curling iron curls hair. However, be sure to not overheat the tool, or you’ll risk
burning your lashes or delicate eyelids.
EYELASH GLUE
Eyelash glue is a cosmetic adhesive that
comes in white or black colors and is
used to apply false eyelashes. In most
cases, the glue dries clear after
application. This glue is safe to use near
your eyes and peels off quite easily.
FALSE
EYELASHES
A must-have makeup staple
between 1920 and 1960,
false eyelashes were a must
in every woman’s makeup
arsenal. However, that trend
came to a halt during the
relaxed 1970s era, when the
natural look became
popular. Today, false
eyelashes are still a great
choice when you want to
glam up your look.
There are two types of lashes: strip and
individual lashes. Made with human hair
or synthetic materials, they come in
many styles, colors, and lengths and are
applied with eyelash glue. While they
are not designed to be worn when
showering, sleeping, or swimming, they
can be used to add some drama, day or
night.
STRIP EYELASHES
Strip lashes come on a strip or band in
different lengths and colors. If cared for
properly, strip lashes can also be reused.
The following step-by-step guide
assures a quick and clean application.
While I use a bobby pin to press the
lashes down, feel free to use tweezers or
the end of your makeup brush. When
you’re ready to remove them, gently pull
them off; you can use a gentle makeup
cleanser to remove any excess glue.
1. With a pair of tweezers, remove a
false eyelash strip from its container.
If the strip is too long, trim from the
outside (wider) part of the lash strip.
2. Put a drop of eyelash glue on one end of the bobby pin.
3. Apply a thin line of glue on the
eyelash with the bobby pin, and let
the glue air-dry for about 30
seconds. If the glue is too wet, the
strip will slide around.
4. Lay the strip as close to the lash line
as possible. Press the strip lash
down with the clean side of the
bobby pin. Continue pressing the
lash down in the center and work
left to right until the lash has
adhered.
Eyelash Extensions
If you desire permanent full and long lashes, you might consider looking into eyelash extensions.
They consist of sections of at least three false
eyelashes glued together. Unlike false eyelashes,
eyelash extensions aren’t damaged by water from
showering or swimming, making them a great
option if you enjoy an active lifestyle. This lash type also gives you much more control in terms of how
thick you want your lashes and where you put
them.
Eyelash extensions come in three types: synthetic,
mink, and silk. Whatever type you choose, they
have to be applied by a professional. Extension
lashes are permanent, not reusable, and can last up
to six to eight weeks. Because extension eyelashes
will fall out when you lose your natural lashes, it is recommended you get a touch-up every three to
four weeks.
INDIVIDUAL EYELASHES
Unlike strip lashes, individual eyelashes
typically come as one single lash or in a
group of three lashes. They are used to
fill in lashes where needed and can
create a more natural look than strip
lashes. The following takes you through
how to apply them.
1. Curl your natural lashes to give them
some bend. This makes them “hide”
better with the fake lashes. Also,
prep your lashes with one precoat of
mascara. This also helps the lashes
blend more seamlessly with the false
lashes.
2. Using a clean set of tweezers or
your fingers, grab one lash from your set of individual lashes.
3. Lightly dip the end of the lash into a
dot of eyelash glue.
4. Starting from the outside of your
eye, apply the lash right into your
lash line using the tweezers. Let dry
for a few seconds if you landed in
the right spot, or take your time in
moving it so the eyelash lines up
with the rest of your natural lashes.
Continue to fill in as many lashes as
you need.
5. After you have applied the lashes
and allowed the glue set and dry for
a few minutes, gently comb through
your lashes with a mascara wand.
This ensures all the false and natural
lashes aren’t poking out in different
directions.
CHAPTER 15
LIPS
The lips are the second most important
feature next to the eyes. Throughout the
decades, there have been full red, hot
pink, nude glossy, and soft dusty rose lip
trends. Today, the market has dozens of
different shades of lip colors. Taking the
time to master the techniques to a great
lip application allows you to complete a
flawless look.
In this chapter, I discuss lip color products and how to choose the right lip
color. I also talk about applying lip liner
and correcting your lip shape to balance
your face.
LIP COLOR
PRODUCTS
Lip color products come in
pencils, lipsticks, lip stains,
and lip glosses.
Each type has its uses and advantages.
Take a look at each type and see what
you need for or would like to add to
your makeup arsenal.
Lip pencil: This comes in a variety of
shades and, like any cosmetic pencil,
must be sharpened with a cosmetic
pencil sharpener to keep its fine point. A
lip pencil is not only great for outline work, but also for filling the lips to act
as a base color.
Lipstick: This is the most common lip
color application. It has a creamy
consistency, is made from various forms
of wax, and can contain emollients and
oils for soft, healthy lips. Lipstick in
tube form allows you to apply your lip
color without any additional tools.
However, cream lipstick, which comes
in a pot or palette, requires a lip brush
for application.
Fixing Broken Lipstick
Oops! Did you break your lipstick? Not to worry!
Take a lighter or match (being careful not to burn
yourself) and melt one end of the stick. Next,
reattach the stick and hold it in place until dry. Your lipstick should be as good as new!
The Secret to Long-Lasting Lip
Color
Looking for lip color with staying power? Using a
lip pencil as a base color, line your lips and fill them in with the lip pencil. Next, apply a layer of lipstick
and set with a matching powder eye shadow.
Lip stain: Made from a water and gel
formula, it has a high pigment content
and can last up to 18 hours. Lip stain is
more difficult to remove than lipstick or
lip pencil, requiring you to use a makeup
remover or dish soap for best results.
Lip gloss: This comes in a gel
consistency and is great for hydrating
lips. Gloss comes in many
complementary shades to lipstick,
making it ideal to apply on top of matte lipstick for a juicy finish. Dabbing clear
or tinted gloss in the center of the lip can
also help create the illusion of fullness.
Lip balm: Created to help reduce
cracked and chapped lips and to add
moisture, lip balm is made with wax or
paraffin and can contain flavors,
pigments, and even sunscreen. Applying
lip balm before applying lipstick will
help your lipstick go on more smoothly.
Setting Your Lipstick
To set your lipstick, take a single-ply tissue and lay it across your finished lips. Apply setting powder to a brush, and then swipe the setting powder over the
tissue. The powder will set your lips through the
tissue.
Getting the Last of Your Gloss
Many have dealt with the headache of being at the
end of their lip gloss tube and unable to get the rest of the product out. However, you don’t have to give
it up to the trash. Dipping the tube into hot water
will loosen up the product so you can access it.
Creating Your Own Lipstick Palette
With the following tools, you can actually create
your own lipstick palette from lipsticks you have in separate containers.
Two different lipstick tubes
Large metal spoon
Candle
Empty and clean contact case
1. Place one color of lipstick in the large metal
spoon.
2. Hold the metal spoon over the candle.
3. Once the lipstick becomes a liquid, pour it into
one side of the contact case.
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 with the second
lipstick.
Voilà! You have created your own traveling lip
palette. Apply with a lip brush and enjoy!
CHOOSING THE
RIGHT LIP
COLOR
Beauty product
shelves are filled
with many shades
of lip colors.
How do you choose the right shade? One
rule of thumb is to choose a lip color
that is complementary to your cheek
color; after all, you don’t want your lip
and cheek colors to be jarring.
Another consideration is your skin tone.
You want a shade that doesn’t wash you
out or age you. The following are the
best colors for different skin tones.
APPLYING LIP
LINER
Are you having trouble lining
your lips?
Do you simply need a process that’s fast
and easy? Follow these steps to get
beautifully lined lips in no time!
1. With your lip pencil, create a U
shape at the center of the bottom
lip.
2. Starting at one outside corner of the
bottom lip, follow the lip line down
to meet the center line. Repeat from
the other outside corner.
3. On the upper lip, create a V shape within the cupid’s bow.
4. Position your lip pencil at the
corner of the mouth and travel up
the lip, curving over and into the V.
Repeat on the opposite side.
CREATING
BALANCE
BASED ON YOUR
LIP SHAPE
Lips come in all shapes and
sizes, but they basically boil
down to these four types:
average, wide, thin, and
combination.
Your goal in your makeup application is
to ensure your lips are in proportion to
your face. Sometimes, to ensure your
lips are proportional, you may need to
correct your lip shape. The following
shows you how to do this with
foundation, lip pencil (sharpened, of
course), and lip color or lip gloss.
AVERAGE
With average lips, the
top and bottom lips
are equal in size. In
addition, the outer edges of the mouth
align with the pupils of the eyes.
Because the mouth is in proportion to the
face, the lips need no correction.
Therefore, simply apply your lip pencil
and/or color by following the natural lip.
WIDE
With wide lips, the top
and bottom lips are
full and therefore too
big for the face shape. The goal is to
reduce the fullness of the lips, helping to
balance them with the rest of the face. To
correct the wide lip shape, follow these
steps:
1. Cover the entire lip with your
foundation color.
2. Using a lip pencil, draw a line just
inside the lip line on the top and
bottom lips.
3. Using the same lip pencil, fill
inside the new lip line. Do not use
a darker color, as it will only make
the lips look fuller.
4. Apply lip color or gloss to finish
the correction.
THIN
With thin lips, the top
and bottom lips are
thin and therefore too
small for the face shape. The goal is to
increase the fullness of the lips to
restore balance. To correct the thin lip
shape, follow these steps:
1. Cover the lip area with your
foundation color.
2. With your lip pencil, draw a line
just above the lip line on top and
bottom.
3. Fill inside of the new lip line. You
can choose to use a darker lip
pencil color to create additional
fullness.
4. Apply the lip color of your choice
and a gloss at the center of the lip.
The gloss placement gives a 3D
effect to the lip.
COMBINATION
If you have a thin top
lip and a full bottom
lip (or vice versa),
you have a combination lip. The goal is
to address the different shapes so they
are not only balanced in relation to your
face, but also to each other. Follow the
steps for correcting thin and wide lips
based on the individual lip to achieve
that look.
Avoiding Lip Stains on Your Glass
Would you like to keep your lipstick on your lips and not on the glass of wine you’re enjoying? Here’s an
easy tip: Lick the rim of the glass before drinking.
Miraculously, your lipstick stays where it should—
on your lips!
PART 3
BRINGING
YOUR LOOK
TOGETHER
CHAPTER 16
MAKEUP
CHECKLIST
Before you get into trying some of the
sample full-makeup applications of 10
classic looks, it’s time to think about
how to document your makeup looks.
After all, you not only want to create a
look that’s best for you, but also
remember it! That’s where the makeup
checklist comes in.
In this chapter, I take you through the two
important components of the makeup
checklist: the profile sheet and the face sheet.
PROFILE SHEET
I created this profile sheet as
a tool for you to better
understand your unique face
and how your face relates to
your makeup choices.
For example, you will often find it
difficult to replicate a makeup look you
watch online or read in a magazine. That
is because the design was on the model
in the tutorial, who had her own unique
face profile. A good makeup artist has
the ability to adapt techniques with each
face they encounter. Having a clear
understanding of your own face
fingerprint will make replicating these
looks that much easier.
The first part of the profile sheet has you
identify your unique facial features so
you can know what type of highlighting
and contouring you’ll need to do to
create the most appealing look. In the
case of copying a model’s look, if you
have deep-set eyes and the model
doesn’t, you have to consider how you
apply the same eye shadows in a
personally flattering way.
The second half of the profile sheet
evaluates your skin type and the basic
makeup choices that coordinate with
your skin type. This will become your
guide for everyday makeup foundation.
Keep in mind, skin concerns and color
can change based on the time of year—
you may have lighter, dryer skin in the
winter and darker, breakout-prone skin
in the summer. Therefore, a few items on
this profile sheet may change throughout
the year.
If necessary, go back through the book as
you fill out the profile sheet to ensure
you’re making the most accurate choices.
Additional Copies
Want additional copies of this sheet? Go to
idiotsguides.com/everydaymakeupsecrets to print off as many as you need.
FACE SHEET
Now that you have a better
understanding of what works
for your face and skin type,
you can begin building your
makeup design.
A handy tool to have as part of your
makeup checklist is a face sheet,
something you may have seen a makeup
artist use at the makeup counter at some
point. Basically, you include the
following information on a face sheet:
• Foundation/concealer: Includes
primers, concealers, foundations,
or setting powders
• Corrective makeup: Includes
highlights and contours
• Eyes: Includes eye shadows,
eyeliners, mascara, or false
eyelashes
• Cheeks: Includes cheek colors
• Lips: Includes lip pencil, lipstick, or
lip gloss
To fill out this sheet, use your finger, a
brush, or a disposable applicator to
apply makeup on the sheet based on
what you use to create your look. You
can then label the product used in the free space provided. I would suggest
applying makeup on the face sheet
exactly how you applied it to your face
so you more accurately see how the
colors looked.
The next page shows you a blank face
sheet. If you’d like to see one filled out,
check out any of the looks in Chapter 17.
Additional Copies
If you would like additional copies of this sheet, go to idiotsguides.com/everydaymakeupsecrets to print off as many as you need.
CHAPTER 17
Ten Classic Looks
Now that you have the knowledge, the
tools, and the secrets, let’s put a look
together! In this chapter, I provide 10
makeup applications I feel stand the test
of time: daytime natural, elegant
evening, dramatic evening, 1940s bridal,
1950s chic, 1970s bronze, metallic
smoky eye, all about the lips, mature
mineral, and youthful glitter.
Each look includes a completed face
sheet and profile sheet for each model,
in order to help guide you in mapping
out the look for your unique face shape, facial features, and skin type. As you’ll
see, even a little makeup can make a big
impact!
DAYTIME
natural
Makeup doesn’t have to be complicated. The key
to a daytime look is keeping your makeup light and
translucent. A simple eye, a little mascara, and a
glossy lip are all you need for a beautifully natural look.
DAYTIME
NATURAL
FACE SHEET
FOUNDATION/CONCEALER:
Concealer (half-shade
lighter)
Tinted liquid foundation
CORRECTIVE MAKEUP:
Cream highlight
EYES:
Ivory eye shadow
Taupe eye shadow
Dark brown mascara
CHEEKS:
Peach-pink blush
LIPS:
Peach-pink jumbo cream
lip pencil
Clear lip gloss
DAYTIME NATURAL
PROFILE SHEET
NAME: Josie
AGE: 16
FACE SHAPE: oval
EYE SHAPE: deep set
EYE COLOR: green
EYEBROWS: curved
NOSE: natural
LIPS: average
SKIN TYPE: dry
AREAS OF none
CONCERN:
SKIN TONE: warm
PRIMER: none
FOUNDATION: liquid
Tools
Disposable latex sponge
Blush brush
Large eye shadow brush
Medium eye shadow brush
Eyelash curler
Disposable mascara wand
Apply concealer that’s a half-shade
lighter under the eyes and around the
nose and lips to conceal any redness or
trouble spots.
Using a sponge, apply tinted liquid
foundation. The tinted moisturizer helps
create a sheer, natural look.
Apply ivory eye shadow all over each
eyelid, starting at the brow bone and
working your way down to the upper
lashline.
Apply a matte medium taupe eye shadow
in each crease.
Eye Shadow for Deep-Set Eyes
Josie has deep-set eyes, so using eye shadow
highlight helps bring her eyes forward. If you have
deep-set eyes, you can do the same and use the
same shadow under the eye and into the upper
cheek to add a highlight. Avoid using dark colors on the eyelids, as that will make your eyes appear
they’re set back even deeper.
After prepping the eyelashes with an
eyelash curler, apply dark brown
mascara on the top lashes only.
Apply peach-pink cream blush to the
cheeks, making sure to follow the natural
cheekbones. Dust a cream highlight on
the cheeks for a bright, dewy look.
Fill the lips with a peach-pink jumbo
cream lip pencil to enhance the natural
lip color. You can add a bit of shine to
the lips with a clear lip gloss.
Refresh the eyebrows by brushing them
with a disposable mascara wand or
other brush tool.
Creating a Dewy Look
If you want a natural “dewy” look, choose a liquid
foundation, cream highlighter, and cream cheek
color. Cream makeup will look more supple and
moisturized than powder. The exception, of course, is if you have oily skin; avoid creams, since they’ll be more likely to break out your skin.
ELEGANT
evening
This full makeup application with a focus on the
eye is perfect for special occasions, such as an
evening wedding, holiday party, or gala event.
Because the lighting at a formal evening event
tends to be subdued, using a shimmer eye shadow
can reflect the lighting in a way that gives you a
romantic glow. You can even add some strip
eyelashes to ramp up this elegant look.
ELEGANT
EVENING
FACE SHEET
FOUNDATION/CONCEALER:
Concealer (half-shade
lighter)
Full-coverage liquid
foundation
CORRECTIVE MAKEUP:
Cream highlight
Brown cream eye shadow
Tinted setting powder
EYES:
Black eyebrow pencil
Eye shadow (one shade
lighter)
Shimmer taupe eye shadow
Pale yellow shimmer eye
shadow
Dark brown matte eye
shadow
Flesh-colored eye pencil
Black liquid eyeliner
Black mascara
CHEEKS:
Dusty rose blush
LIPS:
Matte raspberry jumbo lip
pencil
Nude lip gloss
ELEGANT EVENING
PROFILE SHEET
NAME: Arianne
AGE: 23
FACE SHAPE: round
EYE SHAPE: monolid
EYE COLOR: brown
EYEBROWS: soft angled
NOSE: wide
LIPS: wide
SKIN TYPE: dry and
sensitive
AREAS OF none
CONCERN:
SKIN TONE: warm
PRIMER: none
FOUNDATION: liquid
Tools
Powder brush
Blush brush
Large eye shadow brush
Medium eye shadow brush
Eyelash curler
False strip eyelashes and cosmetic scissors
(optional)
Apply concealer that’s a half-shade
lighter under the eyes, around the nose,
on the “parentheses” around the lips, on
the forehead, and on the chin.
Apply full-coverage liquid foundation.
Apply cream highlight under the cheeks,
along the nose and middle of the
forehead, around the nose, under the
eyes and eyebrows, and on the chin.
Apply brown eye shadow contour along
the cheekbones, sides of the nose, tip of
the nose, and jawline and above the
hairline along the temple.
Blend the highlight and contour by
brushing on tinted setting powder.
Use a black pencil to fill and shape your
brows. This will create dynamic, soft-
angled brows.
Apply eye shadow one shade lighter than
your natural skin tone under the brow
bones and down into the corner of the
eyes.
Apply shimmer taupe eye shadow from
the tear ducts and over the eyelids. Open
your eyes and reapply. Apply pale
yellow shimmer eye shadow in the
inside corner of the eye, stopping just
before the center.
Apply dark brown matte shadow to the
outside corner of the eyelids.
Apply a flesh-colored pencil followed
by a brown pencil onto the water line to
give the illusion of having wider eyes.
Apply a thin line of black liquid eyeliner
starting in the corner of each eye,
following the natural lash line around;
end with a thin wing tip.
After curling the eyelashes, apply black
mascara to the top lashes.
Apply dusty rose blush to the cheeks.
Fill and line the lips with a matte
raspberry jumbo lip pencil. Dab lip
gloss (either nude or a similar color to
the lip color) onto the center of the lips
for highlight.
Optional Strip Lash
Before putting on mascara, add half of a false strip eyelash to the corner of the eyes to fill out your
lashes. Simply cut a strip lash in half and use the
fuller half on the upper lash line.
Making Your Eyes Appear Larger
To make your eyes appear larger, apply a white
liner on the lower water line. Next, directly
underneath the white line, apply a brown or black
eyeliner. Doing so will give the illusion of a larger eye.
DRAMATIC
evening
When you are going out to a club, a bachelorette
party, or anyplace you can let loose, you have a
chance to really go bold with your makeup! Like
the elegant evening makeup, the lighting in most
nighttime venues is darker, making it a prime
opportunity to create drama with your look. For
this makeup, you’ll make the eyes your showy
statement piece.
DRAMATIC
EVENING
FACE SHEET
FOUNDATION/CONCEALER:
Concealer
Full-coverage cream
foundation
CORRECTIVE MAKEUP:
Cream highlight pencil
EYES:
Dark brown eyebrow pencil
Pale gold shimmer eye
shadow
Bronze shimmer eye shadow
Teal shimmer eye shadow
Midnight blue shimmer eye
shadow
Black liquid eyeliner
Black mascara
CHEEKS:
Dusty rose blush
LIPS:
Flesh-colored lip pencil
Flesh-colored lip gloss
DRAMATIC
EVENING
PROFILE SHEET
NAME: Nathalie
AGE: 39
FACE SHAPE: round
EYE SHAPE: monolid
EYE COLOR: brown
EYEBROWS: soft
angled
NOSE: wide
LIPS: wide
SKIN TYPE: oily
AREAS OF dark
CONCERN: circles
SKIN TONE: warm
PRIMER: clear
FOUNDATION: cream
Tools
Disposable latex sponge
Blush brush
Large eye shadow brush
Medium eye shadow brush
Scotch tape
Index card
Apply concealer under the eyes, around
the nose, and wherever else you have
redness.
Apply full-coverage cream foundation.
Apply highlight and contour to the
cheeks, nose, jawline, and forehead.
Blend highlight and contour into the
foundation with a damp sponge.
Brush a soft duty rose blush between
highlight and contour, following the
natural line of the cheeks.
With a dark brown pencil, start filling in
the eyebrows from the inside corner of
the eye, creating “hair strokes” straight
up and angled toward the natural brow
shape. The brows should be slightly
fuller near the nose and thinner through
the arch and end of the brow.
Place Scotch tape along the outside of
the eyes, starting at the outside corner
and angling to the end of the eyebrows;
this will help you with placement. Apply
pale gold shimmer eye shadow from the
corner of each eye and follow up across
the entire eyebrow, ending at the brow
bone to create a crease.